I know it can be difficult to figure out how to make things in just the right size for you, especially when there are a ka-zillion different patterns out there using unfamiliar yarn and hook sizes you just want to forget about use your favorite one instead. Here a simple concept pattern that can be easily adapted for your cold lil’ toes!
Easily Adjustable Crochet Slippers
* I use a size N (9.00 MM) hook and Lion Brand Super Bulky (6) yarn.
Toes (Front of the slipper):
Ch 4, jn in the first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 8 sc in ring. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (8 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in same st as jn. 2 hdc in the next st., (hdc, 2hdc) around. Jn with a sl st in first hdc. (12 hdc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in same st as jn. Hdc, 2hdc, (hdc, hdc, 2hdc) around. Jn with a sl st in first hdc. (16 hdc)
* Size adjustment note: The point of these rounds is for the tip of the toes to get wider until you are ready to continue on in single hdc rounds to create a straight, cylindrical shape. When the toes are wide enough, you can stop increasing and skip to round 5, but if you want the shoe wider than what I have here then you can continue the increase pattern for another few rounds. For example: Rnd 2 was (hdc, 2hdc) around, Rnd 3 was (hdc, hdc, 2hdc) around, Rnd 4 is (hdc, hdc, hdc, 2hdc) around, so if you add another increase round it would be (hdc, hdc, hdc, hdc, 2hc) around. Make sense?
Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st as jn. Hdc, hdc, 2hdc, (hdc, hdc, hdc, 2hdc) around. Jn with a sl st in first hdc. (20 hdc.)
Rnd 5-?: Ch 2, hdc in same st and in each st around. Jn with a sl st in first hdc. (20 hdc in each round.) Repeat Rnd 5 until slipper is long enough for you to begin creating the opening. (For me this will wind up being Rnds 5-12.)
Divide for sides and sole:
*You will now be working back and forth, turning the work, rather that all the way around.
Row 1-?: Ch 2, turn work. Hdc in same st and around, but don’t join. Instead, Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st and back around. Work the rows back and forth in this way until the slipper is long enough to close behind the heel. Turn the slipper in-side-out (right sides together) and stitch the heel closed at the end. (I have 8 rows here.)
Rnd 1: Jn with a sl st in the center of the heel. Ch 2, hdc in same st and around, accept you will be adding 6 decreases around the top of the shoe. Once at the beginning, once on each side, once in each of the front corners, and once at the very end of the round. Jn with a sl st in first hdc.
Rnds 2-?: Read the size adjustment note for ankle first, and then carry on with this round. Ch 2, hdc in same st and in each st around. Join with a sl st in first hdc. Repeat Rnd 2 until the ankle is as tall as desired. Then fasten off and weave in ends. (I have 5 rounds when I’m finished.)
*Size adjustment note for ankles: You can adjust the width of the ankle in the rounds to come. If you want it tighter, decrease evenly 4 to 6 times around the ankle. If it’s tighter than you’re comfortable with you can increase in a few places evenly around. Join with a sl st in first hdc and repeat round 2, adjusting as desired, until the ankle is as tall as you’d like.
If you’d like to add a bobble round the way I did, then I used normal Red Heart Yarn and a size K hook. I worked this round after the 5 ankle rounds in red. So this would be round 6.
Jn with a sl st in the center of the back. Working in the back (inside) loops only, Ch 2, do a 4dc bobble, then in the next st and in each st around work a 5dc bobble. Join with a sl st in top of first bobble.
How to 5dc bobble: (YO, insert hook and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) 5 times, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.
I then added one more hdc round with the chunky red yarn and then one last single crochet round on top of that.