Crochet Bunnies Everywhere!!!!

I have been so obsessed with this FREE crochet bunny pattern lately! They are the most adorable bunnies ever!!!

I just made a nautical-themed bunny for myself so I can snuggz him and squeeze him! I just made up the hat as I went along and didn’t write it down, but I’m pretty sure you can find a much better one on ravelry or pinterest in a simple search. For the life preserver, I used a hook size a few times larger than I used for the bunny. I used an F for the bunny and a K for the preserver. I chained 10 and joined to form a ring. Then I worked 20 sc into the ring and joined with a sl st. Then I took some red and wound it around four different sides.

nauticalbunny2

nauticalbunny1

nauticalbunny4

 

I made another one for Admin Important! She seems to like it! She deserves the bunny snuggz!

easterbunnyforsista2

 

The first one I made was for my Great Aunt DD. We’re pen pals and I lurvz sending her lil’ crochet gifts whenever I can. She’s such a sweet lady! However, I made this bunny and became addicted to the bunniez patternz.

Bunny for DD 1

 

Now you must design your own bunniez! Follow the link up there to the FREE pattern and make ALL THE BUNNIES!!! Party on, ghoulz!

~ Starling

 

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Mizzy Kitty’s book available now!

Mizzy Kitty’s book is available on Amazon now! We’re so excited, and I’d like to thank you all for your support! I lurvz that you choose to hang out online with me, my Mizzy Kitty, and the whole Craftyghoul gang!

You can get your copy of “No, Mizzy, No!” here! Please share with everyone ya know!

Thank you so much,

Starling

mizzychief today

 

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Star Wars Millennium Falcon and Tie Fighter Crochet Pattern

 

shipd

*Note: I am only a casual Star Wars fan, and though I have a great appreciation and respect for this awesome fandom, I do NOT claim to know every specific detail the way a hardcore fan would. So if you are an avid fan and see a slight deviation in design or construction that would make these projects more to your liking, by all means do it your way so that it’s true to form. I created this pattern for a pal of ours for Christmas and I used inspiration images from the movies. I tried to remain simple in design so that only the basic identifying factors are there so that there wouldn’t be anything weird going on in the patterns to distract the hardcore fans from enjoying the finished product. Also, please pardon my made-up words when I’m not sure what the pieces of the ship(s) are called. You may have to have much geeky laughter at my expense…and I suppose that’s okay as long as you’re smiling in the end with a neat ship to fly around your house shooting at your cat for at least half an hour like I did once they were complete! Of course…then I wrapped them up and gifted them to our friend…but they had to have a test flight first, right? Right.

Oh! And I wasn’t going to share the pattern at first because I was insecure, but then I showed pictures to some of my Star Wars-obsessed friends and they said they are the greatest, and that if I DIDN’T share the the pattern that the fandom would show up at my door with pitchforks and many angry shouts. Well…I don’t want that…unless most of the angry mob is going to be mostly-naked-stripper versions of Han Solo…but I bet my luck isn’t that great. So I jotted it down to share with the world. I think I managed to remember everything correctly, so enjoy!

shipe

Millenium Falcon Crochet Pattern:

I use a K (6.50MM) unless otherwise stated, (some parts are made with an F 3.75MM hook), and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.

*There are many more images at the very bottom of this post so you can better see the project as I was working on it.

Body (Make Two; One for the top, and one for the bottom which you will sew together later.):

Rnd 1: With gray, ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, work 10 dc. Jn in first dc. (10 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st. 2dc in each st around. (20 dc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next st. (2dc, dc) around. (30 dc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts. (2dc, dc, dc) around. (40 dc)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts. (2dc, dc, dc, dc) around. (50 dc)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts. (2dc, dc in next 4) around. (60 dc)

Rnd 7 will create the side of the ship: Ch 2, dc in same st. Dc in next 4 sts, (dc, ch 2, sl st) in next st. Working in back loops now, sc in next 21 sts, ch 1. In front loops only for the next 12 sts, hdc, dc, hdc, sc in next six, hdc, dc, hdc, ch 1. Now back to working in back loops only again, sc in last 21 sts. Sl st to join in first dc. To finish the front of the ship, Ch 2 and jn in top of first dc. Ch 1 and working in back loops only starting with the same/current st you’re in, sc in next 6 sts. Ch 1 and sl st in same st as final sc. Fasten off. On either the top or bottom of the ship you may want to leave the tail long enough to sew the halves together.

You’ll then return to the 12 sts where you worked in the front loops only and use the back loops of those stitches to create the blueish glow of the back of the ship. In the chain before the 12 loops, jn blue with a sl st. Sc in those 12 back loops, and then sl st into the chain after the 12 loops. Fasten off. Weave in ends of one of the body’s you make, but on one of them leave a blue tail long enough to sew the top blue to the bottom blue.
Front ‘Pincers’ (Make Two):

Top: Ch 15. Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, htr, tr, tr, ch 1, hdc, sc, sc, sc, sl st, sl st. Ch 1, pivot and sc back up the ch. In the last ch, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) and jn with a sl st in first sc. Don’t fasten off.
Begin sides: Ch 1, beginning in same st as jn but working in back loops only, sc around. Jn in first sc. Sides created. Don’t fasten off.

Begin the bottom: Ch 1, in back loops only and beginning in same st as jn, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, htr, tr, tr, hdc, sc, sc, sc, sl st, sl st. Faste off leaving tail long enough to tuck the bottom against the side and sew it closed. You may want to stuff the section as you go along sewing it closed.

Side…uh…circle thingies (Make two):

Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, beginning in next st, 2sc in each st around. Jn w/a sl st. Fasten off black.

Rnd 3: Join in any back loop with gray and ch 1. Working in back loops only, sc in same st, 2sc in next st, (sc, 2sc) around. Jn w ith a sl st.

Rnd 4: (Begin sides) Ch 1, in back loops only, sc in next st and around. Jn with a sl st. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew to side of ship. You may want to stuff as you go, and then thread some black through the center and into the ship to pull the center of this cylinder in so it doesn’t bulge.

Yeah…I don’t know what that cylindrical thingy angled out beside the ship is either. Maybe that’s where he hangs out to drive the ship? Maybe it’s a giant gun? Nah, it looks like he sits in there. I’d sit in there. It’s been too long since I’ve had a Star Wars movie marathon. Someday I’m going to try the books. I’ve heard they’re really good! So…here’s how I make the pattern for the part I’m talking about right now:

Rnd 1: With black, ch 2, 6sc into 2nd ch from hook. Jn. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1. In back loops only this round, 2sc in the next 4 sts, then switch to black and work 2sc in the next 2 sts. Jn.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn work. Still with black, sc in same st and the next 3 black sts. Switch to gray, sc in the next 8 sts. Jn. You can fasten off the black.

Rnd 4-6: With gray, ch 1, sc in next st and around. Jn. (12 sc)

Rnd 7-8: Ch 1, hdc in same st. Hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, jn with a sl st.

Rnd 9: Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in next 3 sts, sl st in next 6 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, jn with a sl st.

Second half:

Rnd 1: Ch 12, jn with a sl st to create a large ring. Ch 1, hdc in same ch and in next 5 chs, then sl st in the last 6 chs. Jn with a sl st in first hdc. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew this side to the ship.

Rnd 2: Flip work and jn yarn in the beginning chain yet working in the opposite direction. Ch 1, and beginning in same st, hdc in each in 6 chs where you worked hdc before, and sc in each 6 chains where you worked a sl st in the round before.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, and beginning in same st, hdc in each hdc st, and sl st in each sc st. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew two halves together matching hdc’s and slip stitches.

Stuff and sew onto the ship.
Satellite:
Use F hook (3.75MM)

Rnd 1: Ch 2, in 2nd ch from hook, work 6 sc. Jn.

Rnd 2: Ch 1. Work in the front loops only on this round. Beginning in next st, 2sc in each st. Jn. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew Satellite to bottom circle panel and then to sew the panel to the ship.

Bottom panel:
Continue using F hook.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, in 2nd ch from hook, work 6 sc. Jn.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, beginning in next st, 2sc in each st around. Jn. Fasten off.

For the connector: Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last 2 chs. Fold in half and place between top and bottom.

To join, thread through the center of the satellite, and down through the connector, and down into the bottom. Do this a few times and in different areas of the center until you have it placed as you’d like. Then connect one edge of the top satellite to the bottom pannel so that it makes the satellite face the side and look more satellite-ish and less flower-ish or thimble-ish. Sew the bottom panel to the ship.

Black circular vents:

You can use felt, or you can make little circlet with black yarn and the F hook and:
Ch 2, in 2nd ch from hook, work 6sc. Jn with a sl st and fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew vent to ship.
Once you’re done with the ship accessories, sewing the part together, and adding accents, then you can make one last gray circle for the top center of the ship, and that will cover up the center where you threaded through all of the ‘lines’ to add shape to the ship. For this circle all you need to do is repeat the first two rounds of the ship body with gray:

Going back to the K hook:
Rnd 1: With gray, ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, work 10 dc. Jn in first dc. (10 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st. 2dc in each st around. (20 dc)

Then sew on that top circle. I only use the bottom loops on the outside round so that it looks more textured.

 

 

shipa

Star Wars Tie Fighter Crochet Pattern:

I use Red Heart Super Saver yarn, a K (6.50MM) hook, and an F (3.75MM) hook.
Middle Sphere:

With K hook, begin with black yarn.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, in 3rd ch from hook, sc 6. Jn. Fasten off black.

Rnd 2: Jn with gray. Ch 1, sc in same st and each st aroud. Jn. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: In back loops only, Ch 1, sc in each st around. Jn.

Rnd 4: Decrease around. Jn. (6 sc.) Stuff. If it needs another round, simply Ch 1 and decrease around again. Depending on the yarn I use, sometimes I can usually simply sl st the sphere closed after round 4, but sometimes there is enough space to where I need to add one more decrease round. If so, just add the decrease round and then sl st closed.

Sides (Make Two):
With K hook and black yarn:
Rnd 1: Ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, (dc, ch 1, dc) six times. Ch 1, jn with a sl st in first dc.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, beginning in same st as jn, Dc, then (dc, ch 2, dc) into ch-1 space from previous round. *Dc in center stitch, (dc, ch 2, dc) into ch-1 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off black.

Rnd 3: With gray, single crochet in all the center stitches (the stitches that are between the ch-2 places), and in each chain-2 space, (sc, dc, sc). Jn with a sl st and fasten off.

I use gray and thread it through the center and the sides to make the crossed details along the black center.

Sides to connect the hexagons to the sphere:

Use an F hook and gray yarn. Ch 15 and sc up the chain. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to fold this strip up accordion-style and thread it in place. Then I stick it between the sides and the sphere and sew it all in place.

ship sides to center

ship1

ship3

ship5

shipc

shipb

 

ship2

Satellite for Millennium Falcon (And Mizzy the Kitty helping)

 

 

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Triforce Shield Shaped Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern

triforce blankie3

My hubby is a big zelda fan, so I made this blankie for us to use when we have a baby! (Some day…) But who doesn’t need a Triforce baby blanket for their hope chest???

I made this pretty small, so it should be crib blanket size, or even stroller blanket size. I would assume you could make it bigger if you just keep making the triangles bigger. I wanted to make it square, at first, but then when I made the first half granny square to go on it I realized that if I sewed it in place it would wind up making it slightly off from a squared shape, but when I stepped back and looked at it, it became obvious that I had stumbled upon a shield shape! Had I been trying for that, it probably would have taken weeks to figure out!

This is made using a triangle bunting pattern that I found here, and a half granny square pattern that I got here. They’re both free patterns, and I’ll tell you what I did for the border in just a second.

First I’d like to remind you that the triangle bunting pattern is in UK terms, so you will be using US double crochets and NOT tr cr. I used the bunting pattern for the three gold triangles and the one center green triangle. I made the center triangle one round less than the three gold triangles. I did six rounds for each gold triangle, and five rounds for the center green triangle. I used Red Heart Super Saver Yarn and  size K hook.

The three large triangles around the Triforce are half granny squares. Twelve rows on each of those matched up for the squares I made. Like I said before, you maybe able to adjust the size of the blanket by simply making larger gold triangles and then making the half granny squares larger until they fit proportionately. I used a yarn needle to sew it all together.

For the border, I worked in the back loops, and I did half double crochet stitches all the way around, one in each of the three stitches and then on in the chain between the fan stitches.  In each of the three corners, I worked (hdc, dc, hdc).

triforce blankie1

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Go check out this yarn stash organization tip right now!!!!!! Woot-woot!

Hey!!! You guyz have got to go check out this post on yarn organization and keeping up with what colors/brands of yarn you have! It will revolutionize the way you are trying to keep track! It’s genius! Admin Important was surfing around and happened upon the post and shared it with me right away, and now I must drop everything and share it with you! I’ll add a picture here to entice you, and you can click on the picture or the link above to take you there to check it out! So neat and clever!

Organize-Your-Yarn-Stash-Lookatwhatimade

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Robin Hat and Fingerless Glove Set Crochet Pattern

robin glove and hat2

I designed this set to make a matching Robin set, but you could also change the color combination and make all kinds of superhero sets from this! Ex: Gray + black + yellow = Batman.Green + Orange/Gold = Aquaman.  Red + Blue + Yellow = Superman/Supergirl. Yellow + Gray + Blue = Retro Thor. You could search Amazon.com for iron-on hero patches (and then sew them on), or get crafty and design your own symbol!

Robin Hat and Fingerless Gloves

*Use a K hook, an F hook, and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.
*On any rounds after I switch colors, I like to work in the back loops only of the round with the new color, but this isn’t necessary unless you also like the little ‘line’ that appears as a result as well.

Hat

*Use a K hook for hat.

With Red:
Rnd 1: Ch 4, join to form a ring. Ch 2, (counts as dc here and throughout pattern), 9dc in ring. Jn in first dc to close round here and at the end of each rnd. (10 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (20 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, (dc, 2dc) around. Join. (30 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, Dc in next st, 2 dc, (dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (40 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (50 dc)
With Yellow:
Rnds 6: Ch 2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (60 dc)
With Red:
Rnd 7-10: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. Jn.
Rnd 11: Repeat Rnd 7 with yellow.
Rnd 12-14 : Repeat Rnd 7 with green.
Rnd 15: Optional single crochet round. With black, jn with sl st, ch 1, sc in same st and around. Jn. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (I use a yarn needle to help me weave in the ends.

*Use an F hook for hat accents.

Strips:

Make two for the strips in the red: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Ch 1, sl st in same ch as last sc. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew strip to hat.
Make two for belt buckles: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Ch 1, sl st in same ch as last sc. Faste off leaving tail long enough to sew strip to hat.

Belt Buckle in Center:

Rnd 1: With black: Ch 2. Work 6 sc into the 2nd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around for a total of 12 sc. Jn with a sl st in first sc.
Rnd 3: Switch to yellow. Working in back loops only this round, jn with a sl st in an sc. Ch 1, (sc, 2sc) around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

‘R’ Patch

For the ‘R’ patch, use an F hook and make another belt buckle except use black for all three rounds. Add a fourth round by: Ch 1. (sc, sc, 2sc) around and joining with a sl st.

Then use a yarn needle and yellow yarn to stitch on an ‘R’.
If you’d like some instructions to make an ‘R’: Use an F Hook, Ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and up chain, ch 8, attach end of chain to center of first slip stiched chain, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and up the chain back to the center of the ‘R’ once again. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to stitch ‘R’ to the patch.

I made an ‘R’ patch for the hat and then one ‘R’ patch to put on each glove. (Glove pattern below.)

**************************************************************************

Robin glove 1

Robin Gloves

Use size K (6.50 MM) hook. I use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.

*IMPORTANT NOTE* There is a slightly different pattern for the right and left hands. Make sure you’re working on the correct hand consistently.

Pattern:

*Join with a sl st in the top of the 1st sc or dc at the end of each round unless otherwise stated.

Beginning on the finger end with Red:
Rnd 1: Ch 20, jn with a sl st in first chain to form large ring. Ch 2, dc in same ch and around. Jn. (20 dc not counting the first ch-2.)
Rnd 2: Flip ring so that you’re working in the original chain once again. Ch 2, dc in same ch and around. Jn.
Rnd 3-4: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn. (20 dc in each round not counting the first ch-2.) Do not fasten off.
Begin thumb and palm rounds:
* Each round will end right before the thumb.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 2, sc in next ch, ch 2, sc in next ch and around. (Remember to continue to jn in first sc unless otherwise stated.) (20 sc, 2 ch-2 spots)

Left Hand Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 5 loosely, 2 sc in the st between ch-2 spots. Slide thumb in the chain space and see if it fits comfortably. Adjust chain now if it needs it so you don’t have to unravel later. Sc in the st after the next ch-2 spot and around. (20 sc and one ch-5 loop for thumb. You’ll do the ‘finger’ part of the thumb after the mitten is finished…so keep in mind you’re still working down the hand from here, not up the thumb for some reason.)

Right Hand Rnd 2:Ch 1, sc in same st, 2sc in st between the two ch-2 spots, ch 5 loosely, sc in the st right after 2nd ch-2 spot and sc around to end of rnd. (20 sc and one ch-5 loop)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc around adding 5 sc inside thumb loop. (25 sc)

Rnds 4 and 5: Ch 1, sc in same st and around. (25 sc in each row)

Left Hand Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same st and sc in next 2 st, dec once. (The decrease should be in the center of the tumb.) Sc around for the rest of the rnd. (24 st; or 22 sc and one sc dec.)

Right Hand Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 st, dec (should be about the center of the thumb), sc around until you get to the last 4 st. Dec twice over those last 4 st. Join rnd with a sl st as usual. (22 st to work in now: or I mean to say there will be 3 sc decreases, and 19 sc that add up to 22 stitches to work in.)

Left Hand Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in next 4 st, dc dec twice. (The two dec should be right after the thumb if you’ve lost count or adjusted.) Dc for the rest of the rnd. (22 st; or 2 dc dec and 20 dc)

Right Hand Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. (22 dc including ch-2)

Left Hand Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc in next 4 st, dec once, (should be right after thumb), dc to end of rnd. (21 st; or 19 dc and 1 dc dec) Fasten off.

Right Hand Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc dec, dc in next st and around. (21 st, or 20 dc including first ch-2 and one dc dec) Fasten off.

Lower (wrist) of glove:
*Will work back and forth in rows.

Rw 1: Ch 16, dc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (14 dc not counting skipped 2 chains.)
Rw 2: Ch 2, turn. Working in back loops only, dc in next st and across. (14 dc counting first ch-2 as a dc.)
Rw 3: Ch 2, turn. Working in front loops only, dc in next st and across. (14 dc counting frst ch-2 as a dc and remember to put one of those dc into the ch-2 from the last row at the end.)
Repeat Rws 2 and 3 until the wrist is long enough to fit around your arm. (I repeat rows 2 and 3 four times and then add one more row.)
To line the bottom of the glove, ch 1 and sc around the bottom edge of the glove, joining with a sl st as if it is a round rather than a row. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew the side of the glove together. *Note* You may want to add an extra sc here and there along the side so that the end of the glove is wider than the wrist edge on the opposite side where you will sew it to the top part of the glove. Your arm gets wider further up your arm….so adding a few extra stitches here and there along the border will help that shape.

Sew the top and bottom of the glove together.

 

* Go back to the finger tips of the glove.
With black, jn with a sl st, ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
* Go back to thumb.
With red, jn with a sl st anywhere in thumb, sc in same st as join, sc around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. For the next round, ch 1, sc around and jn with a sl st. Repeat until thumb is as tall as desired.

Robin diagram

Fin-type thingies to add to arm:

Make two or three and then sew onto the lower part of the arm. Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, (sc, hdc) in next ch, dc in last 3 chs. Ch 2, sl st in same ch as last dc. Pivot. Sl st back across chain to end. Ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and join with a sl st in the very beginning sc.

 

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My Heart is a Compass

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Hey ghoulz! I have finally done it! I published one of my children’s books! Yaaaay! I’m thinking it’s for around preschool/kindergarten age, but I think even adults should be able to enjoy the artwork and the message of compassion and empathy. It’s the kind of book you can read to a child up until they’re able to read it themselves and understand the message more and more fully as time goes by. I was looking to make a story that is both simplistic and complex at the same time so that hearts of all ages will thump with endearment at the pages. I think the more times I read through it, the deeper the meaning becomes to me as well, so I hope all my ghoulz and baby ghoulz out there will enjoy every page!

My heart is a Compass is an endearing story that encourages children to listen to their conscience, developing empathy and realizing the fulfillment that comes with following your heart.

I would like to get serious for a moment, ghoulz. I have a lot of limitations because I am sick, and one of the only ways I can effect the world around me is with my Facebook pages and blogs here online. Publishing this book is a really big deal to me, and it takes me a pretty long while to accomplish things like this. I would like to thank all my followers, all my ghoulz, for all your laughs, likes, comments and attention. An artist can be as crafty as their heart can muster, but if there is no one to see the artist, it all falls short of fulfilling. The old riddle goes, “If a tree falls in the forest and there is no one there to hear it, does it make a sound?” My answer to this has always been, “Does it matter if it makes a sound if there is no one there to hear it?” Thanks for hangin’ around with me, ghoulz! Thank you very much!

~ Starling

P.S.

Buy my book! Lolz!

cropped-girls-reading-my-heart-is-a-compass4.png

 

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