Star Wars Millennium Falcon and Tie Fighter Crochet Pattern

 

shipd

*Note: I am only a casual Star Wars fan, and though I have a great appreciation and respect for this awesome fandom, I do NOT claim to know every specific detail the way a hardcore fan would. So if you are an avid fan and see a slight deviation in design or construction that would make these projects more to your liking, by all means do it your way so that it’s true to form. I created this pattern for a pal of ours for Christmas and I used inspiration images from the movies. I tried to remain simple in design so that only the basic identifying factors are there so that there wouldn’t be anything weird going on in the patterns to distract the hardcore fans from enjoying the finished product. Also, please pardon my made-up words when I’m not sure what the pieces of the ship(s) are called. You may have to have much geeky laughter at my expense…and I suppose that’s okay as long as you’re smiling in the end with a neat ship to fly around your house shooting at your cat for at least half an hour like I did once they were complete! Of course…then I wrapped them up and gifted them to our friend…but they had to have a test flight first, right? Right.

Oh! And I wasn’t going to share the pattern at first because I was insecure, but then I showed pictures to some of my Star Wars-obsessed friends and they said they are the greatest, and that if I DIDN’T share the the pattern that the fandom would show up at my door with pitchforks and many angry shouts. Well…I don’t want that…unless most of the angry mob is going to be mostly-naked-stripper versions of Han Solo…but I bet my luck isn’t that great. So I jotted it down to share with the world. I think I managed to remember everything correctly, so enjoy!

shipe

Millenium Falcon Crochet Pattern:

I use a K (6.50MM) unless otherwise stated, (some parts are made with an F 3.75MM hook), and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.

*There are many more images at the very bottom of this post so you can better see the project as I was working on it.

Body (Make Two; One for the top, and one for the bottom which you will sew together later.):

Rnd 1: With gray, ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, work 10 dc. Jn in first dc. (10 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st. 2dc in each st around. (20 dc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next st. (2dc, dc) around. (30 dc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts. (2dc, dc, dc) around. (40 dc)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts. (2dc, dc, dc, dc) around. (50 dc)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts. (2dc, dc in next 4) around. (60 dc)

Rnd 7 will create the side of the ship: Ch 2, dc in same st. Dc in next 4 sts, (dc, ch 2, sl st) in next st. Working in back loops now, sc in next 21 sts, ch 1. In front loops only for the next 12 sts, hdc, dc, hdc, sc in next six, hdc, dc, hdc, ch 1. Now back to working in back loops only again, sc in last 21 sts. Sl st to join in first dc. To finish the front of the ship, Ch 2 and jn in top of first dc. Ch 1 and working in back loops only starting with the same/current st you’re in, sc in next 6 sts. Ch 1 and sl st in same st as final sc. Fasten off. On either the top or bottom of the ship you may want to leave the tail long enough to sew the halves together.

You’ll then return to the 12 sts where you worked in the front loops only and use the back loops of those stitches to create the blueish glow of the back of the ship. In the chain before the 12 loops, jn blue with a sl st. Sc in those 12 back loops, and then sl st into the chain after the 12 loops. Fasten off. Weave in ends of one of the body’s you make, but on one of them leave a blue tail long enough to sew the top blue to the bottom blue.
Front ‘Pincers’ (Make Two):

Top: Ch 15. Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, htr, tr, tr, ch 1, hdc, sc, sc, sc, sl st, sl st. Ch 1, pivot and sc back up the ch. In the last ch, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) and jn with a sl st in first sc. Don’t fasten off.
Begin sides: Ch 1, beginning in same st as jn but working in back loops only, sc around. Jn in first sc. Sides created. Don’t fasten off.

Begin the bottom: Ch 1, in back loops only and beginning in same st as jn, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, htr, tr, tr, hdc, sc, sc, sc, sl st, sl st. Faste off leaving tail long enough to tuck the bottom against the side and sew it closed. You may want to stuff the section as you go along sewing it closed.

Side…uh…circle thingies (Make two):

Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, beginning in next st, 2sc in each st around. Jn w/a sl st. Fasten off black.

Rnd 3: Join in any back loop with gray and ch 1. Working in back loops only, sc in same st, 2sc in next st, (sc, 2sc) around. Jn w ith a sl st.

Rnd 4: (Begin sides) Ch 1, in back loops only, sc in next st and around. Jn with a sl st. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew to side of ship. You may want to stuff as you go, and then thread some black through the center and into the ship to pull the center of this cylinder in so it doesn’t bulge.

Yeah…I don’t know what that cylindrical thingy angled out beside the ship is either. Maybe that’s where he hangs out to drive the ship? Maybe it’s a giant gun? Nah, it looks like he sits in there. I’d sit in there. It’s been too long since I’ve had a Star Wars movie marathon. Someday I’m going to try the books. I’ve heard they’re really good! So…here’s how I make the pattern for the part I’m talking about right now:

Rnd 1: With black, ch 2, 6sc into 2nd ch from hook. Jn. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1. In back loops only this round, 2sc in the next 4 sts, then switch to black and work 2sc in the next 2 sts. Jn.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn work. Still with black, sc in same st and the next 3 black sts. Switch to gray, sc in the next 8 sts. Jn. You can fasten off the black.

Rnd 4-6: With gray, ch 1, sc in next st and around. Jn. (12 sc)

Rnd 7-8: Ch 1, hdc in same st. Hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, jn with a sl st.

Rnd 9: Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in next 3 sts, sl st in next 6 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, jn with a sl st.

Second half:

Rnd 1: Ch 12, jn with a sl st to create a large ring. Ch 1, hdc in same ch and in next 5 chs, then sl st in the last 6 chs. Jn with a sl st in first hdc. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew this side to the ship.

Rnd 2: Flip work and jn yarn in the beginning chain yet working in the opposite direction. Ch 1, and beginning in same st, hdc in each in 6 chs where you worked hdc before, and sc in each 6 chains where you worked a sl st in the round before.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, and beginning in same st, hdc in each hdc st, and sl st in each sc st. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew two halves together matching hdc’s and slip stitches.

Stuff and sew onto the ship.
Satellite:
Use F hook (3.75MM)

Rnd 1: Ch 2, in 2nd ch from hook, work 6 sc. Jn.

Rnd 2: Ch 1. Work in the front loops only on this round. Beginning in next st, 2sc in each st. Jn. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew Satellite to bottom circle panel and then to sew the panel to the ship.

Bottom panel:
Continue using F hook.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, in 2nd ch from hook, work 6 sc. Jn.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, beginning in next st, 2sc in each st around. Jn. Fasten off.

For the connector: Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last 2 chs. Fold in half and place between top and bottom.

To join, thread through the center of the satellite, and down through the connector, and down into the bottom. Do this a few times and in different areas of the center until you have it placed as you’d like. Then connect one edge of the top satellite to the bottom pannel so that it makes the satellite face the side and look more satellite-ish and less flower-ish or thimble-ish. Sew the bottom panel to the ship.

Black circular vents:

You can use felt, or you can make little circlet with black yarn and the F hook and:
Ch 2, in 2nd ch from hook, work 6sc. Jn with a sl st and fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew vent to ship.
Once you’re done with the ship accessories, sewing the part together, and adding accents, then you can make one last gray circle for the top center of the ship, and that will cover up the center where you threaded through all of the ‘lines’ to add shape to the ship. For this circle all you need to do is repeat the first two rounds of the ship body with gray:

Going back to the K hook:
Rnd 1: With gray, ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, work 10 dc. Jn in first dc. (10 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st. 2dc in each st around. (20 dc)

Then sew on that top circle. I only use the bottom loops on the outside round so that it looks more textured.

 

 

shipa

Star Wars Tie Fighter Crochet Pattern:

I use Red Heart Super Saver yarn, a K (6.50MM) hook, and an F (3.75MM) hook.
Middle Sphere:

With K hook, begin with black yarn.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, in 3rd ch from hook, sc 6. Jn. Fasten off black.

Rnd 2: Jn with gray. Ch 1, sc in same st and each st aroud. Jn. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: In back loops only, Ch 1, sc in each st around. Jn.

Rnd 4: Decrease around. Jn. (6 sc.) Stuff. If it needs another round, simply Ch 1 and decrease around again. Depending on the yarn I use, sometimes I can usually simply sl st the sphere closed after round 4, but sometimes there is enough space to where I need to add one more decrease round. If so, just add the decrease round and then sl st closed.

Sides (Make Two):
With K hook and black yarn:
Rnd 1: Ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, (dc, ch 1, dc) six times. Ch 1, jn with a sl st in first dc.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, beginning in same st as jn, Dc, then (dc, ch 2, dc) into ch-1 space from previous round. *Dc in center stitch, (dc, ch 2, dc) into ch-1 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off black.

Rnd 3: With gray, single crochet in all the center stitches (the stitches that are between the ch-2 places), and in each chain-2 space, (sc, dc, sc). Jn with a sl st and fasten off.

I use gray and thread it through the center and the sides to make the crossed details along the black center.

Sides to connect the hexagons to the sphere:

Use an F hook and gray yarn. Ch 15 and sc up the chain. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to fold this strip up accordion-style and thread it in place. Then I stick it between the sides and the sphere and sew it all in place.

ship sides to center

ship1

ship3

ship5

shipc

shipb

 

ship2

Satellite for Millennium Falcon (And Mizzy the Kitty helping)

 

 

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Triforce Shield Shaped Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern

triforce blankie3

My hubby is a big zelda fan, so I made this blankie for us to use when we have a baby! (Some day…) But who doesn’t need a Triforce baby blanket for their hope chest???

I made this pretty small, so it should be crib blanket size, or even stroller blanket size. I would assume you could make it bigger if you just keep making the triangles bigger. I wanted to make it square, at first, but then when I made the first half granny square to go on it I realized that if I sewed it in place it would wind up making it slightly off from a squared shape, but when I stepped back and looked at it, it became obvious that I had stumbled upon a shield shape! Had I been trying for that, it probably would have taken weeks to figure out!

This is made using a triangle bunting pattern that I found here, and a half granny square pattern that I got here. They’re both free patterns, and I’ll tell you what I did for the border in just a second.

First I’d like to remind you that the triangle bunting pattern is in UK terms, so you will be using US double crochets and NOT tr cr. I used the bunting pattern for the three gold triangles and the one center green triangle. I made the center triangle one round less than the three gold triangles. I did six rounds for each gold triangle, and five rounds for the center green triangle. I used Red Heart Super Saver Yarn and  size K hook.

The three large triangles around the Triforce are half granny squares. Twelve rows on each of those matched up for the squares I made. Like I said before, you maybe able to adjust the size of the blanket by simply making larger gold triangles and then making the half granny squares larger until they fit proportionately. I used a yarn needle to sew it all together.

For the border, I worked in the back loops, and I did half double crochet stitches all the way around, one in each of the three stitches and then on in the chain between the fan stitches.  In each of the three corners, I worked (hdc, dc, hdc).

triforce blankie1

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Robin Hat and Fingerless Glove Set Crochet Pattern

robin glove and hat2

I designed this set to make a matching Robin set, but you could also change the color combination and make all kinds of superhero sets from this! Ex: Gray + black + yellow = Batman.Green + Orange/Gold = Aquaman.  Red + Blue + Yellow = Superman/Supergirl. Yellow + Gray + Blue = Retro Thor. You could search Amazon.com for iron-on hero patches (and then sew them on), or get crafty and design your own symbol!

Robin Hat and Fingerless Gloves

*Use a K hook, an F hook, and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.
*On any rounds after I switch colors, I like to work in the back loops only of the round with the new color, but this isn’t necessary unless you also like the little ‘line’ that appears as a result as well.

Hat

*Use a K hook for hat.

With Red:
Rnd 1: Ch 4, join to form a ring. Ch 2, (counts as dc here and throughout pattern), 9dc in ring. Jn in first dc to close round here and at the end of each rnd. (10 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (20 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, (dc, 2dc) around. Join. (30 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, Dc in next st, 2 dc, (dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (40 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (50 dc)
With Yellow:
Rnds 6: Ch 2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (60 dc)
With Red:
Rnd 7-10: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. Jn.
Rnd 11: Repeat Rnd 7 with yellow.
Rnd 12-14 : Repeat Rnd 7 with green.
Rnd 15: Optional single crochet round. With black, jn with sl st, ch 1, sc in same st and around. Jn. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (I use a yarn needle to help me weave in the ends.

*Use an F hook for hat accents.

Strips:

Make two for the strips in the red: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Ch 1, sl st in same ch as last sc. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew strip to hat.
Make two for belt buckles: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Ch 1, sl st in same ch as last sc. Faste off leaving tail long enough to sew strip to hat.

Belt Buckle in Center:

Rnd 1: With black: Ch 2. Work 6 sc into the 2nd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around for a total of 12 sc. Jn with a sl st in first sc.
Rnd 3: Switch to yellow. Working in back loops only this round, jn with a sl st in an sc. Ch 1, (sc, 2sc) around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

‘R’ Patch

For the ‘R’ patch, use an F hook and make another belt buckle except use black for all three rounds. Add a fourth round by: Ch 1. (sc, sc, 2sc) around and joining with a sl st.

Then use a yarn needle and yellow yarn to stitch on an ‘R’.
If you’d like some instructions to make an ‘R’: Use an F Hook, Ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and up chain, ch 8, attach end of chain to center of first slip stiched chain, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and up the chain back to the center of the ‘R’ once again. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to stitch ‘R’ to the patch.

I made an ‘R’ patch for the hat and then one ‘R’ patch to put on each glove. (Glove pattern below.)

**************************************************************************

Robin glove 1

Robin Gloves

Use size K (6.50 MM) hook. I use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.

*IMPORTANT NOTE* There is a slightly different pattern for the right and left hands. Make sure you’re working on the correct hand consistently.

Pattern:

*Join with a sl st in the top of the 1st sc or dc at the end of each round unless otherwise stated.

Beginning on the finger end with Red:
Rnd 1: Ch 20, jn with a sl st in first chain to form large ring. Ch 2, dc in same ch and around. Jn. (20 dc not counting the first ch-2.)
Rnd 2: Flip ring so that you’re working in the original chain once again. Ch 2, dc in same ch and around. Jn.
Rnd 3-4: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn. (20 dc in each round not counting the first ch-2.) Do not fasten off.
Begin thumb and palm rounds:
* Each round will end right before the thumb.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 2, sc in next ch, ch 2, sc in next ch and around. (Remember to continue to jn in first sc unless otherwise stated.) (20 sc, 2 ch-2 spots)

Left Hand Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 5 loosely, 2 sc in the st between ch-2 spots. Slide thumb in the chain space and see if it fits comfortably. Adjust chain now if it needs it so you don’t have to unravel later. Sc in the st after the next ch-2 spot and around. (20 sc and one ch-5 loop for thumb. You’ll do the ‘finger’ part of the thumb after the mitten is finished…so keep in mind you’re still working down the hand from here, not up the thumb for some reason.)

Right Hand Rnd 2:Ch 1, sc in same st, 2sc in st between the two ch-2 spots, ch 5 loosely, sc in the st right after 2nd ch-2 spot and sc around to end of rnd. (20 sc and one ch-5 loop)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc around adding 5 sc inside thumb loop. (25 sc)

Rnds 4 and 5: Ch 1, sc in same st and around. (25 sc in each row)

Left Hand Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same st and sc in next 2 st, dec once. (The decrease should be in the center of the tumb.) Sc around for the rest of the rnd. (24 st; or 22 sc and one sc dec.)

Right Hand Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 st, dec (should be about the center of the thumb), sc around until you get to the last 4 st. Dec twice over those last 4 st. Join rnd with a sl st as usual. (22 st to work in now: or I mean to say there will be 3 sc decreases, and 19 sc that add up to 22 stitches to work in.)

Left Hand Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in next 4 st, dc dec twice. (The two dec should be right after the thumb if you’ve lost count or adjusted.) Dc for the rest of the rnd. (22 st; or 2 dc dec and 20 dc)

Right Hand Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. (22 dc including ch-2)

Left Hand Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc in next 4 st, dec once, (should be right after thumb), dc to end of rnd. (21 st; or 19 dc and 1 dc dec) Fasten off.

Right Hand Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc dec, dc in next st and around. (21 st, or 20 dc including first ch-2 and one dc dec) Fasten off.

Lower (wrist) of glove:
*Will work back and forth in rows.

Rw 1: Ch 16, dc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (14 dc not counting skipped 2 chains.)
Rw 2: Ch 2, turn. Working in back loops only, dc in next st and across. (14 dc counting first ch-2 as a dc.)
Rw 3: Ch 2, turn. Working in front loops only, dc in next st and across. (14 dc counting frst ch-2 as a dc and remember to put one of those dc into the ch-2 from the last row at the end.)
Repeat Rws 2 and 3 until the wrist is long enough to fit around your arm. (I repeat rows 2 and 3 four times and then add one more row.)
To line the bottom of the glove, ch 1 and sc around the bottom edge of the glove, joining with a sl st as if it is a round rather than a row. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew the side of the glove together. *Note* You may want to add an extra sc here and there along the side so that the end of the glove is wider than the wrist edge on the opposite side where you will sew it to the top part of the glove. Your arm gets wider further up your arm….so adding a few extra stitches here and there along the border will help that shape.

Sew the top and bottom of the glove together.

 

* Go back to the finger tips of the glove.
With black, jn with a sl st, ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
* Go back to thumb.
With red, jn with a sl st anywhere in thumb, sc in same st as join, sc around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. For the next round, ch 1, sc around and jn with a sl st. Repeat until thumb is as tall as desired.

Robin diagram

Fin-type thingies to add to arm:

Make two or three and then sew onto the lower part of the arm. Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, (sc, hdc) in next ch, dc in last 3 chs. Ch 2, sl st in same ch as last dc. Pivot. Sl st back across chain to end. Ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and join with a sl st in the very beginning sc.

 

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My Heart is a Compass

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Hey ghoulz! I have finally done it! I published one of my children’s books! Yaaaay! I’m thinking it’s for around preschool/kindergarten age, but I think even adults should be able to enjoy the artwork and the message of compassion and empathy. It’s the kind of book you can read to a child up until they’re able to read it themselves and understand the message more and more fully as time goes by. I was looking to make a story that is both simplistic and complex at the same time so that hearts of all ages will thump with endearment at the pages. I think the more times I read through it, the deeper the meaning becomes to me as well, so I hope all my ghoulz and baby ghoulz out there will enjoy every page!

My heart is a Compass is an endearing story that encourages children to listen to their conscience, developing empathy and realizing the fulfillment that comes with following your heart.

I would like to get serious for a moment, ghoulz. I have a lot of limitations because I am sick, and one of the only ways I can effect the world around me is with my Facebook pages and blogs here online. Publishing this book is a really big deal to me, and it takes me a pretty long while to accomplish things like this. I would like to thank all my followers, all my ghoulz, for all your laughs, likes, comments and attention. An artist can be as crafty as their heart can muster, but if there is no one to see the artist, it all falls short of fulfilling. The old riddle goes, “If a tree falls in the forest and there is no one there to hear it, does it make a sound?” My answer to this has always been, “Does it matter if it makes a sound if there is no one there to hear it?” Thanks for hangin’ around with me, ghoulz! Thank you very much!

~ Starling

P.S.

Buy my book! Lolz!

cropped-girls-reading-my-heart-is-a-compass4.png

 

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Pocket Kitties

 

pocket kitties header

 

kitty palm grass

Pocket Kitty

I use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn and a size H hook.

Body:
Rw 1: Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (14 sc)
Rw 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st and across. (14 sc)
Rw 3-12: Repeat Rw 2.
You should now have a rectangle. The shorter ends are the front and back. Fold each corner in on itself and sew up it to make each leg. There should be a little bit, maybe a stitch or two, left over in the very center. You’ll stuff the body from there and then finish sewing it up.

pocket kitty belly

Head:
Rw 1: First ear row: Ch 9. Sc in the 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, sl st in next 2 chs, sc in next 2 ch, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, sc in last chain. Pivot work so that you are working beneath the top ear row you just created.

*You’ll now work down in rows making the head smaller until you get to where the chin will be, and then it will get larger again until you repeat this first ear row to mirror what you just made. It will be folded in half and sewn up. I will detail out each row for you, though, of course!

Rw 2: Sc in same st and across. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)

Rw 3: Decrease, sc in next 4 sts, decrease. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)

Rw 4: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)

Rw 5: Decrease, sc in next 2 sts, decrease. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc)

Rw 6: Decrease twice. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc)

Rw 7: (Center bottom row). Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc)

Rw 8: 2sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc)

Rw 9: 2sc, sc in next 2 sts, 2sc. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)

Rw 10: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)

Rw 11: 2sc, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc. Turn, do not chain. (8 sc)

Rw 12: (Ear row) Sc in the first st, Ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from hook, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from hook, sc in the last st.

*Note on whikers BEFORE you attach the head to the body*
For the whiskers, to keep them from coming off, I take one longer piece of yarn to make two whiskers, but rather than thread them from one side of the nose to the other, before I attach the head I knot the center of the long piece of yarn in the same place I’m going to sew the head to the body so that it will disguise the different color. Then I thread both ends all the way through the head and out on each side of the nose to make two whiskers. I do that three times. If you’re not worried about the whiskers coming out because you won’t be playing with the pocket kitty, then feel free to just thread a tiny piece of yarn from one side of the nose to the other.

front of pocket kitty face

back of pocket kitty face
Tail:
Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, ch 1 sl st in same ch, pivot work, ch 1, sc in same chain and back up the chain. Fasten off leaving yarn long enough to fold the tail in half long-ways and seam it up and then sew the tail to the body. The two rows folded together will make sure the tail will be stiff enough to poke straight up like a curious kitty.

Sew the parts together and use a yarn needle to stitch on some eyes, a nose, and whiskers!

pocket kitty grass 2

Pocket kitty stand off header

Kitty piano close up

Pocket Kitty next to Mizzy Kitty

 

 

 

 

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Lucky Rooster Charm

both rooster charms

Lucky Rooster Charm

I use an F hook, a K hook, a yarn needle to weave in the ends and sew the pieces in place, and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. I’ve added the sunflower pattern below for the summertime rooster charm shown above as well. Both roosters are done with the same pattern and different colors.

~Hollow Shamrock~  

With an F hook:

Rnd 1: Ch 2, (sc, ch 10) three times into 2nd ch from hook. Sc again into the hook. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 10: Along each leaf of 10 chains: Sl st 3 times, (sc, hdc, sc) into the next ch, sl st in next 2 chs, (sc, hdc, sc) into next ch, sl st in last 3 chs. Sl st into the next sc. Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st back up chain and jn with a sl st in the next sc. Fasten off.

hollow shamrock close up 2

 

Rooster:

~Body~
With a K hook:
Rnd 1: Ch 2. 6sc into the 2nd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in the first hdc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: (Jn new color with a sl st in same place as join if you’re chainging colors.) Ch 1, 2sc in each st around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, 3hdc in each st around. Jn with a sl st in first hdc. (36 hdc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc) around. Jn with a sl st in first hdc. (42 hdc)

~Tail~
With an F hook:
Ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook an in last 4 chs. Ch 9, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in last 7 chs. (Ch 11, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in last 9 chs) twice. Sl st 3 times across the bottom back to the beginning chain. Fasten off.
~Head~
Use an F hook. You’ll be working from the neck and then leaving a space for the beak, and then making the top of the head:
Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in first ch. Ch 7, (hdc, dc, hdc) in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next ch, sl st in next ch. Fasten off. The two unworkd chains will be where the beak will be placed.

rooster tail and head

~Beak~
With an F hook, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next chain. Fasten off and sew onto head.
~Legs~
With a K hook and leg color, ch 40. Fasten off. Leave enough yarn on each end of the chain to thread it through a button or bobble for decoration.

~Handle~
With a K hook again: Chain 60, jn with a sl st in the 30th ch from hook to make the handle. Join the bottom of the chain to the center of the leg-color chain strip by first threading it through the center of the rooster body. Knot it so that it will stay.

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~Rainbow~
Use an F hook.
*Work in the back loops only of the rounds of the rainbow.
*Jn with a sl st in first sc at the end of each round.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6sc)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, 3sc in each st around. Jn with a sl st in first hdc. (36 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2sc) around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (42 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sts, 2sc) around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 6 ss, 2sc) around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew rainbow together around the edges when you fold it in half. Feed the handle through the center of the rainbow, then fold it in half and sew it in place

rainbow handle

~Clouds~
Make 4 with an F hook.
Ch 4, (hdc, 3dc, hdc) into 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next chain. (Dc, 3tr, dc, ch 2, sl st, hdc, 2dc, hdc) into last chain, pivoting work so that you can sl st into the middle chain. Then join the round with a sl st in very first sc.

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~Sunflower~

The sunflower is if you are making the sunflower rooster version for a summertime charm rather than a lucky charm.
With an F hook:
Rnd 1: Ch 2, in 2nd ch from hook, (sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook) 6 times. Jn with a sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: In this rnd and next 2 rnds, you will only be working in the single crochet stitches that were done in the round. Not the ch-2-sc-in-2nd-ch-from-hook stitches. (Sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc) in each st around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.
Rnd 3: Switch to yellow and jn with a sl st in same st as join from Rnd 2. Ch 1. (Sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook) in same st as join. (Sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc) in next st. *(Sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook) in next st, (sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc) in next st. Repeat from * back around to first sc. Jn with a sl st in first sc.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, begining in same st as join, *(Sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook) twice. (Sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc) in next st. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc and fasten off. Sew Sunflower to chain.

sunflower close up

 

red rooster close up 2

 

red rooster charm

 

green rooster charm

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Head Over Heels Granny Heart Hat Crochet Pattern

This is my actual hat on my favorite mannequin head, but I colored in the face and hair to give her a more anime look.

This is my actual hat on my favorite mannequin head, but I colored in the face and hair to give her a more anime look.

*A note before getting started for experienced crocheters and/or designers: I use the same basic construction to make any kind of square lined hat. I’ll go into further detail below, but to sum it up quickly for other pattern designers eager to put their own twist to this: First I create squares and sew them side-by-side until the strip is wide enough to fit my head nicely. Then I join my yarn on each side of the joined square strip and I add a single stitch round on each side as a border for the squares. For the crown, I make a circle with each round getting progressively larger at an even rate until the hate is as wide as the head I’m creating it for is. After that I switch to making single stitch rounds until the crown is long enough so that when I attach it to the square strip I already created it is the right length. When I want a slouchy beanie, I repeat the single stitch rounds several times to make the hat longer. (If you want an elf type hat, you can also add single stitch rounds to the earlier rounds I describe below instead of waiting until you get to the single stitch rounds to repeat it for length.) This is the basics of how I design all my hats. When I don’t have a square strip to add to the hat, I simply keep going when I repeat the single stitch rounds after making the crown.

Untitled

 

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Pattern for Head Over Heels Granny Heart Hat

heart square

 

I use an F hook, a K hook, a yarn needle, and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. My heart squares are 3 inches by 3 inches, and my head is 22 inches around. The Craftyghoul hat model I made is about the same as my head, so the hat fits me exactly like it fits this model. I’m an average size adult chick.

Granny Heart Square:

I used an F hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. These hearts would also make cute blankets or used in the construction of kazillions of other things! My heart squares are 3 inches by 3 inches.

Rnd 1: With heart color: Ch 4, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2) into ring 4 times. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 2: Sl st to ch-2 space, (5dc, ch 1) in sc, sl st into next ch-2 space, ch 1, (5dc, ch 1) into next sc, sc into ch-2 space, ch 2, sk the sc stitch, dc into ch-2 space, ch 2, sk the sc stitch, sc in ch-2 space right before the sc where you added your first 5dc, (it might be hard to see is my I specify, but once you get the stitch in there it divideds the shape nicely), ch 1, jn with a sl st in first dc.Fasten off heart color.

Rnd 3: Jn background color in the back loop of the sc right after all the double crochets that have created both arches of the heart. Ch 2, (counts as first dc), 2dc into same back loop, ch 2, add another 3 dc into the same back loop. First corner created. Ch 1, and skip the corner ch-2 space altogether, sc in the back loop of the dc, ch 1, skip ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in the back loop of the sc, ch 1, sk first dc, (sc, hdc, dc) in back loop of next dc, ch 4, sk the next 3 dc, 3dc in the center corner where you sl stiched in Rnd 2 (basically you’re putting 3dc into that corner from Rnd 1), ch 4, sk next 3 dc, (dc, hdc, sc) in back loop of next dc, ch 1, jn with a sl st in first dc.

Rnd 4: Sl st to corner ch-2 space. Ch 2, (2dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 1) into corner chain, sk next 3 dc, (3dc, ch 1) in center sc, sk next 3 dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 1) into corner chain, sk next 3 dc, (3dc, ch 1) into ch-1 space, sk next 3 sts, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 1) into corner, sk one dc, (3dc, ch 1) into the center dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 1) into corner chain, sk next 3 sts, (3dc, ch 1) in next ch-1 space. Jn with a sl st in first dc.

*Note: If the squares you choose are juuuust too short when you add them next to each other to go around your head, but too long if you add another square, just add a single or double crochet row or two to one of the ends of the strip to give it those few extra centimeters.

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For border:

For the border and the rest of the hat, I used a K hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.

Jn with a sl st in the back loop of any stitch. Ch 2, working in back loops only around, dc in each stitch, skipping the ch-1 spaces. In each corner you will do a double crochet deacrease. So each square will have 9 dc stitches along it, and there will be one double crochet decrease stitch between each square to join them nice and snug. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Repeat this on the other side of the strip of squares.

For the second round along the bottom of the hat, continue to work in the back loops only if you want yours to look like mine, or you can work in the entire stitch if you prefer. Ch 1, hdc in same st, and in each st around. Jn with a sl st in first hdc.

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Crown of hat:

This is the same basic pattern I use for all of my hats. There is a repeating pattern to make each round a little wider, and when it gets to your specific preference for how wide, you then simply add double crochet rounds until the hat is as tall as you’d like it, either making it fit your head perfectly, or you can even add many more rounds to create a slouchy beanie! For a children’s hat, simply make less of the growing rounds before you start the repeating double crochet rounds.

Crown of the hat:
*Use a K hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.
*On any rounds after I switch colors, I like to work in the back loops only of the round with the new color, but this isn’t necessary unless you also like the little ‘line’ that appears as a result as well. In this particular hat I used the same color on everything except the heart squares.
Rnd 1: Ch 4, join to form a ring. Ch 2, (counts as dc here and throughout pattern), 9dc in ring. Jn in first dc to close round here and at the end of each rnd. (10 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (20 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, (dc, 2dc) around. Join. (30 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, Dc in next st, 2 dc, (dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (40 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (50 dc)
Rnds 6: Ch 2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (60 dc)
*Note: If you want the hat wider, you can add another round here of increasing before going on to Rnd 7. I stop at round six and rarely feel like I need to add around 7 at all, but sometimes the yarn or the size of squares I used will make me add another round or two. My head is about 22 inches around. You can continue the widening pattern with a round of: (dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) around. If you are using a smaller hook and find that the hat isn’t even almost big enough, add another few rounds inthe same manner before continuing on to Rnd 7, which would look like this: (Dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st) around. (Dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st) around… In the same way if the hat is getting too wide, you can stop at round 4 or 5 and skip straight to Rnd 7. That’s useful if you’re making a hat for a kiddo.

Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. Jn. Repeat this round until hat his desired length when you add the square strip of the hat) If you’re making a normal beanie, this will probably only be a round or two. I personally only add Rnd 7 and sometimes only one more round before I fasten off and leave a tail long enough to sew this crown to the bottom strip of squares. When I make a slouchy beanie, though, I add round 7 and then repeat Rnd 7 six or seven more times before fastening off and sewing the top to the bottom square strip.
* Sew the crown of the hat to the strip of squares with a yarn hook by weaving the needle in and out of the back (inside) loops. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

This heart hat design was inspired by a Zelda heart necklace my hubby, Master Betty, got for me for Valentine’s Day! I put the necklace on my Craftyghoul model so you can see the it too!

heart hat and necklace

heart square hat left side facing

 

heart square hat back view

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Granny Jellyfish Crochet Pattern

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Granny Jellyfish Crochet Pattern

I use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, a yarn needle, and an F and K hook.

*Note: I like joining my shapes using the back loops only. You can do whatever you’re comfortable with! The body for the jellyfish is made the same way as my Petapus (Octopus) body, and then you construct the jellyfish bumper and sew it onto the body. I’ll explain again how to do the body.

For Body, use a K hook and make 4 altered Pentagons:

Rnd 1: Ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, (2hdc, ch 1) 5 times. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Jn or sl st to the first of any of the two hdc stitches, ch 1. Beginning in same st as join, *Sc, sc, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the ch-1 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 3: Jn or sl st to the first of any two single crochet stitches. Beginning in same st as join, (Sc, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, dc, hdc in ch-1 space), twice. Sc, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, hdc, dc, dc in ch-1 space, dc, dc in ch-1 space, hdc, hdc, sc in ch-1 space, sc, hdc in last ch-1 space. Jn in first sc.

Sew the four pentagons together.

To create the bottom 3 rounds of the body:
Working in back loops only, jn yarn with a sl st along the bottom of the project. Ch 1, hdc in same st as jn. Hdc in each st around, and in each of the the places where two shapes are joined you’ll treat the corners as one hdc by doing a dc decrease bewteen them. After that I add two more hdc rounds, joining each round with a sl st in the first hdc. Do not fasten off after last round.

Very bottom of body:
Ch 2, and working in back loops only, dc decrease around. Jn with a sl st in the first dc-dec stitch. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew the bottom opening closed. Stuff the body well and then sew it closed. (I also like to leave a long enough tail to thread it up through the center of the body after I sew it closed to use to hang the Pentapus for decoration.)

Bumper for the jellyfish:

For the bumper you will make two rows of side-by-side pentagons, connect each one to create two separate rings of pentagons, and then join them together on each side to create a mini doughnut. (Incidentally, if you need a Doughnut-gon, or a Pentanut…Doughnut, here ya go!) Then you’ll slide that onto the body and stitch it in place.

IMG_3481

For the top round of the bumper, use an F hook and make 9 petagons using only Rnd 1 and 2 of above pentagon. Sew these side by side with the flat ends of the pentagons in line. The other side will make a jagged appearance, which you will fit the bottom round into like a little monster’s sharp teeth. What? Is that a weird analogy?

For the bottom round of the bumper, use a K hook and make 9 pentagons using only Rnd 1. Sew them together side by side in the same way as the top bump, and then attach the jagged end of this neatly into the jagged part of the top of the bumper.

Sew the two flat edges together, stuffing as you go along, then fasted off leaving the tail long enough to sew the bumper to the body. Slide the bumper onto the body with the 2-round pentagons on top and the flat joined edges should be facing the body so that seem will be hidden in the finished project.

 
Jellyfish tendrils:

I make three of each: curls and straight, but you can experiement to see what you think is best!

Curl: Ch 40, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch up the hook. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew tendril to body.

Straight: Ch 40, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew to body.

IMG_3513

Cute eyes:
Use F (3.75 MM) hook for the eyes.
(Make two.)
Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: With white and working in back loops only, join with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in back loop of next st, (2 sc in the back loop of next st, 1 sc in back loop of next st) around. Join with a sl st in 1st sc. Don’t fasten off. (18 sc) For pupil, you will now chain 4 and sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 ch. Sl st in front loop of next st. Fasten off with tail long enought to sew pupil to eye and the eye to head. Fold strip down into the black of the eye and sew it into place.

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Pentapus: Granny Octopus Crochet Pattern

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Pentapus: Granny Octopus Crochet Pattern

I use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, a yarn needle, and an F and K hook.

*Note: I like joining my shapes using the back loops only. You can do whatever you’re comfortable with!

For Body, use a K hook and make 4 altered Pentagons:

Rnd 1: Ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, (2hdc, ch 1) 5 times. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Jn or sl st to the first of any of the two hdc stitches, ch 1. Beginning in same st as join, *Sc, sc, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the ch-1 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 3: Jn or sl st to the first of any two single crochet stitches. Beginning in same st as join, (Sc, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, dc, hdc in ch-1 space), twice. Sc, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, hdc, dc, dc in ch-1 space, dc, dc in ch-1 space, hdc, hdc, sc in ch-1 space, sc, hdc in last ch-1 space. Jn in first sc.

Sew the four pentagons together.

 

To create the bottom 3 rounds of the body:

Working in back loops only, jn yarn with a sl st along the bottom of the project. Ch 1, hdc in same st as jn. Hdc in each st around, and in each of the the places where two shapes are joined you’ll treat the corners as one hdc by doing a dc decrease bewteen them. After that I add two more hdc rounds, joining each round with a sl st in the first hdc. Do not fasten off after last round.

Very bottom of body:
Ch 2, and working in back loops only, dc decrease around. Jn with a sl st in the first dc-dec stitch. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew the bottom opening closed. Stuff the body well and then sew it closed. (I also like to leave a long enough tail to thread it up through the center of the body after I sew it closed to use to hang the Pentapus for decoration.)

body of pentapus

Hexi-legs on a Pentapus:

I make only five legs because it’s a Pentapus…but if you want more or less legs, have at it!

Use an F hook and make 6 hexagons per leg. Attach hexagons so that each side of the leg comes to a point. (Hexagon pattern below.) Attaching the legs with a pointed end will make them pleasantly floppy. If you prefer stiff legs, then make two pentagons instead of the last two hexagons, and then fit those two pentagons into the bottom instead of hexagons so that the leg will have a round opening as more of a cylindrical shape on one end, while the other end will still end in a point with the hexagons. Then you can place the leg where you’d like it and sew around it in a stiff circle. I preffer floppy legs, personally.

Hexagon:

Rnd 1: Ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, (2hdc, ch 1) 6 times. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Jn or sl st to the first of any of the two hdc stitches, ch 1. Beginning in same st as join, *Sc, sc, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the ch-1 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

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IMG_3491

 

I then added my anime eyes:

Cute eyes:
Use F (3.75 MM) hook for the eyes.
(Make two.)
Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: With white and working in back loops only, join with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in back loop of next st, (2 sc in the back loop of next st, 1 sc in back loop of next st) around. Join with a sl st in 1st sc. Don’t fasten off. (18 sc) For pupil, you will now chain 4 and sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 ch. Sl st in front loop of next st. Fasten off with tail long enought to sew pupil to eye and the eye to head. Fold strip down into the black of the eye and sew it into place.

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IMG_3511

 

 

 

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Love and War Chunky Throw Crochet Pattern

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Often times opposing forces combine to make the most captivating stories and the most beautiful acts in nature;  love and war, roses and thorns, storms and rainbows. In the world of crochet we can use classic combinations to weave passionate tales of our own, such as slash stitches and lace stitches, and then use the finished tome to curl up with a cup of hot chocolate and story that was written with words to delight every one of our senses at once. Be careful not to get overwhelmed, lest you start phrasing everything you say with a little too much dramatization, like me…

I used 2 Strands of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn held together and a size N (9.00MM) hook.

Note: Chunky yarn can be really expensive, but I luvz the instant gratification and the cozy warmth that comes with chunky projects, so I often times use 2 strands of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. This blanket took me about 2 skeins per 2 strips…so about a skein per strip. It was difficult to tell at first since I use two skeins at the same time. Another reason I worked in strips instead of working straight up the blanket is because I hate it when I’m off on my prediction of how much yarn I’m going to need, and then I finish 1/2 or 3/4 a project and then the store suddenly doesn’t carry that color anymore. This way I can sew the strips together later, so if I wind up picking a complimentary color instead of working right through, I only wind up remaking one or two strips if any at all. I also join the strips later because I love the textured effect of using the back loops only when I join them.

V-stitch: (Dc, ch 1, dc) into space indicated.

Pattern for One Strip (I make 7 or 8 strips for a lap throw)

Rw 1: Ch 100. Dc in 4th ch from hook and across stopping before the last chain. Chain 3 and jn with a sl st in that last chain. The ch-3 will take space of your last dc. (98 dc.)

Rw 2: Now pivot your work so that you’re working back up the original chain. I do this to disguise the chain row because they tend to look a little tighter than the rest of a project, so I want to make it easier to join and keep it from having a skewed appearance. Ch 3, (works as the first dc) sk first dc, dc in next ch, sk next 2 chs, v-st in next dc. *Sk next 2 ch, v-st in next ch. Repeat from * to last 4 chs. Skip next ch, dc in next dc, dc in the top of ch-3. (Might be dc to the last 4 st, sk next 2 ch, dc in next dc, dc in the top of ch-3. See which you do the next time or two.)

Rws 3-4: Ch 3, turn. Skip first dc, dc in next dc, sk next dc, v-st in next ch-1 space. *Sk next 2dc, v-st in next ch-1 space. *Repeat from * to last 3 sts. Sk next dc, dc in next dc, dc in top of ch-3.

Rw 5: Ch 3, turn. Sk first dc, dc in next 2 dc. *Dc in next ch-1 space, dc in next 2 dc. Repeat from * to last st. Dc in top of ch-3.

Rw 6 ( Center Slash Row): Ch 2, turn. Dc in next 2 st. (Ch 3, sk next 3 st, dc in next 4 st) across to last three stitches, sk next dc, dc in next st and dc in the top of the ch-3.

*Note: If you’ve lost count with so many stitches, don’t fret as long as it’s not grossly off count. Just add a couple dc or decrease here and there in the double crochet rows as you go along. When I work this project I sometimes have 2 or 3 stitches left after my last 4 double crochet in row 6, and sometimes I have 4 stitches. I don’t make a big deal out of it and I just dc in what I have left and move on to row 7. If you’re not sure, your work should not be growing or shrinking, which means you should have about 98 sts in every row. You can adjust easily as you go along without having to unravel the whole thing as long as you catch it sooner than later. This is another of Starling’s lazy tips, and no one ever sits there counting out the 98 stitches per row on my blankets like, “Man…I have this strange feeling that you might be off a stitch…I think there are 97 in this one row…and maybe 99 in that one…”

Rw 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc across working 3 dc in each ch-3 space.

Rw 8-11: Repeat Rws 2-5. Fasten off after Row 11.

 Rows

Border:

Rnd 1: Jn with a sl st somewhere along the top. (Ch 4, dc) in same st. (Skip next 2 stitches, V-stitch) around. In each corner, work (V-st, ch 1, V-st). Along the sides where the stitch placement is not clear, you can use your best judgement. I count each row as the equivilant of 2 stitches, and this gives me about 7 V-stitches per each strip along the sides.

Rnd 2: In each ch-1 of the V-stitches, (sc, sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc). Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Joining:

I like joining the strips by putting the wrong sides against one another and joining them with a yarn needle using the back loops only. This is how I get the pleasant textured look between the strips. Make sure you pick one side to be the front of your blanket so that you remember to position the strips the same so that you have the textured areas all on the same side that is facing up.

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