Love and War Chunky Throw Crochet Pattern

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Often times opposing forces combine to make the most captivating stories and the most beautiful acts in nature;  love and war, roses and thorns, storms and rainbows. In the world of crochet we can use classic combinations to weave passionate tales of our own, such as slash stitches and lace stitches, and then use the finished tome to curl up with a cup of hot chocolate and story that was written with words to delight every one of our senses at once. Be careful not to get overwhelmed, lest you start phrasing everything you say with a little too much dramatization, like me…

I used 2 Strands of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn held together and a size N (9.00MM) hook.

Note: Chunky yarn can be really expensive, but I luvz the instant gratification and the cozy warmth that comes with chunky projects, so I often times use 2 strands of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. This blanket took me about 2 skeins per 2 strips…so about a skein per strip. It was difficult to tell at first since I use two skeins at the same time. Another reason I worked in strips instead of working straight up the blanket is because I hate it when I’m off on my prediction of how much yarn I’m going to need, and then I finish 1/2 or 3/4 a project and then the store suddenly doesn’t carry that color anymore. This way I can sew the strips together later, so if I wind up picking a complimentary color instead of working right through, I only wind up remaking one or two strips if any at all. I also join the strips later because I love the textured effect of using the back loops only when I join them.

V-stitch: (Dc, ch 1, dc) into space indicated.

Pattern for One Strip (I make 7 or 8 strips for a lap throw)

Rw 1: Ch 100. Dc in 4th ch from hook and across stopping before the last chain. Chain 3 and jn with a sl st in that last chain. The ch-3 will take space of your last dc. (98 dc.)

Rw 2: Now pivot your work so that you’re working back up the original chain. I do this to disguise the chain row because they tend to look a little tighter than the rest of a project, so I want to make it easier to join and keep it from having a skewed appearance. Ch 3, (works as the first dc) sk first dc, dc in next ch, sk next 2 chs, v-st in next dc. *Sk next 2 ch, v-st in next ch. Repeat from * to last 4 chs. Skip next ch, dc in next dc, dc in the top of ch-3. (Might be dc to the last 4 st, sk next 2 ch, dc in next dc, dc in the top of ch-3. See which you do the next time or two.)

Rws 3-4: Ch 3, turn. Skip first dc, dc in next dc, sk next dc, v-st in next ch-1 space. *Sk next 2dc, v-st in next ch-1 space. *Repeat from * to last 3 sts. Sk next dc, dc in next dc, dc in top of ch-3.

Rw 5: Ch 3, turn. Sk first dc, dc in next 2 dc. *Dc in next ch-1 space, dc in next 2 dc. Repeat from * to last st. Dc in top of ch-3.

Rw 6 ( Center Slash Row): Ch 2, turn. Dc in next 2 st. (Ch 3, sk next 3 st, dc in next 4 st) across to last three stitches, sk next dc, dc in next st and dc in the top of the ch-3.

*Note: If you’ve lost count with so many stitches, don’t fret as long as it’s not grossly off count. Just add a couple dc or decrease here and there in the double crochet rows as you go along. When I work this project I sometimes have 2 or 3 stitches left after my last 4 double crochet in row 6, and sometimes I have 4 stitches. I don’t make a big deal out of it and I just dc in what I have left and move on to row 7. If you’re not sure, your work should not be growing or shrinking, which means you should have about 98 sts in every row. You can adjust easily as you go along without having to unravel the whole thing as long as you catch it sooner than later. This is another of Starling’s lazy tips, and no one ever sits there counting out the 98 stitches per row on my blankets like, “Man…I have this strange feeling that you might be off a stitch…I think there are 97 in this one row…and maybe 99 in that one…”

Rw 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc across working 3 dc in each ch-3 space.

Rw 8-11: Repeat Rws 2-5. Fasten off after Row 11.

 Rows

Border:

Rnd 1: Jn with a sl st somewhere along the top. (Ch 4, dc) in same st. (Skip next 2 stitches, V-stitch) around. In each corner, work (V-st, ch 1, V-st). Along the sides where the stitch placement is not clear, you can use your best judgement. I count each row as the equivilant of 2 stitches, and this gives me about 7 V-stitches per each strip along the sides.

Rnd 2: In each ch-1 of the V-stitches, (sc, sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc). Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Joining:

I like joining the strips by putting the wrong sides against one another and joining them with a yarn needle using the back loops only. This is how I get the pleasant textured look between the strips. Make sure you pick one side to be the front of your blanket so that you remember to position the strips the same so that you have the textured areas all on the same side that is facing up.

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Starling’s Kawaii Crochet Anime Kitty

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Starling’s Crochet Anime Kitty

* I use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, a yarn needle, and an F and a K hook. For the body and for ALL squares, use a K hook. For the head motifs use an F hook.

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Number of Motifs

Head: (Remember to use an F hook on all of these.)
9 hexagons
4 squares
4 altered hexagons for the ears

Body: (Remember to use a K hook for all of these except for F hook on the 4 squares.)
21 hexagons
10 pentagons
4 squares

Tail: (Remember to use an F hook for all squares.)                                                                    8 squares

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Hexagon, Pentagon, and Square, and Ear Pattern

Hexagon:

Ch 4, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: (Sc, ch 2) into the ring 6 times. Jn with a sl st in the first sc.

Rnd 2: Jn with a sl st in any sc. *Sc into the sc stitch, (sc, dc) into the ch-2 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Square:

Ch 4, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: (Sc, ch 2) into the ring 4 times. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 2: Jn with a sl st in any sc. *Sc into the sc stitch, (sc, dc) into the ch-2 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Pentagon:

Ch 4, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: (Sc, ch 2) into the ring 5 times. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 2: Jn with a sl st in any sc. *Sc into the sc stitch, (sc, dc) into the ch-2 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Altered Hexagon for Ears:

Rnd 1: Using an F hook like for the other hexagons, Do this round the same as Rnd 1 for the above hexagon.

Rnd 2: In this round switch to a size K hook. Jn with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, sc into the same st, (sc, dc) in ch-2 space. Repeat from * one more time. Hdc in next sc stitch, 2hdc into the ch-2 space, hdc in next sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next ch-2 space, **hdc in the next sc, 2hdc in next ch-2 space. Repeat from ** one more time. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

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Placing of the Shapes

For the tail, I put the top two squares together point-up…so I guess they’re technically diamonds. *Snort*. I sew the top two sides together, and then the next 2 squares fit into the angle that the remaining unworked sides make. I continue on like that until the tail is as long as I want it to be. When attaching the tail I mush the last two points down against the hexagon on the body in the ‘tail spot’ and use that as a rough guide to attach the tail. So if you’re making a bobcat kitty, you can use less squares and make a stubby tail.

For the body, the 5 hexagons make each of the sides, and the hexagons make up the rest. The placing of the hexagons in the corners can be tricky, but you can do it!

The rest are hexagons.

The rest are hexagons.

For the head, the squares are used to create the filler on the bottom and on the sides, and one hexagon will be the top of the head. The front and back of the head are constructed in the same way, so I make those first and then try to stitch the others in place as I join the front and back.

front and back of head

squares will go here

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Joining

I often times like joining by using the back loops only, but if you join with the entire stitch, I think that will be cute too! I use a yarn needle, and I like to use a different color yarn so the stitches stand out against the edges for a Frankenstein kinda look. If you want it to blend in the simply use the same color as the outside of your shapes.

For the feet, you want to try and make them pointed, so the point of the bottom hexagon will fold in on itself and you stitch it together, but the space between the attached shapes make a perfect spot to add a square. You can tell where the one square will go on each leg when you pinch the leg in half. It might be easier to decide if you’re connecting the legs to the right edges if you connect the center of the body first. the very middle pentagon, and the half of each pentagon on either side of it, will be stitched together directly across. If you do that first or at least hold that part together it might be easier for you to keep up with evenly stitching up the leg. If you are slightly off, you don’t have to worry too much because it will most likely just give the cat a look as if he is taking a step. If you’re off a lot then I don’t know what kind of H.P. Lovecraft creature will come out of it….hehehehehe…

joining

Oh...dat leg...

Oh…dat leg…

head views

tail

Then all you need to do is stitch on a little nose and mouth, and decide whether to use buttons or the anime eyes. If you want anime eyes:

Use F (3.75 MM) hook for the eyes.
(Make two.)
Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: With white and working in back loops only, join with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in back loop of next st, (2 sc in the back loop of next st, 1 sc in back loop of next st) around. Join with a sl st in 1st sc. Don’t fasten off. (18 sc) For pupil, you will now chain 4 and sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 ch. Sl st in front loop of next st. Fasten off with tail long enough to sew pupil to eye and the eye to head. Fold strip down into the black of the eye and sew it into place.

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Pattern by Starling of Craftyghoul

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My Doughnut Crochet Hook Case!

So, I don’t really like eating doughnuts…but I luvz the idea of doughnuts. I luv it so much that I made a hook case out of doughnut fabric. If you want your own, you can check out my FREE tutorial for sew a crochet hook case here.

Sorry about the shadows in some of the pictures. Mizzy the Kitty was not going to move out of the spotlight.

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Love and Thorns Goth Heart Crochet Pattern

IMG_3352Love and Thorns Goth Heart Crochet Pattern

Rnd 1) Ch 6, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring. Ch 5, (counts as first dc and ch-2). (3dc, ch 2) three times, add 2 more dc into the ring and jn with a sl st in the 3rd ch of the first ch-5. Sl st to the nearest corner.

Rnd 2) Ch 3, (counts as first dc), (2dc, ch 2, 3dc) into this same corner. Ch 1. (3dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 1) in each corner. Jn with a sl st in the first ch-3. Sl st to corner.

Heart arches:

Work 10 tr in the center ch-1 space of the closest side. Sl st into the corner. Work 10 tr in the next center ch-1 space, and sl st into the next corner.
Thorny Border:

Jn with a sl st in the bottom point of the heart. Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in the back loops of the next 3 sts. Sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in the back loops of the next 3 sts. * Working in back loops, (sl st in next st, ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 sts) twice. Still working in back loops only, sl st into next st, ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st. Repeat from * once to work around the second arch. Sc in ch-1 space. Working in back loops, sc in next 3 sts. Sl st in next ch-1 space, ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, and still working in back loops sc in the las 3 sts. Jn with a sl st in the bottom point of the heart. Fasten off.

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Starling’s Hexagon Bear Crochet Pattern

Starling's Hexagon Bear

Starling’s Hexagon Bear

Starling’s Hexagon Bear Crochet Pattern

The shapes that I designed here only have 3 rounds, and I used either Red Heart Super Saver Yarn or Caron Simply Soft yarn. So you shouldn’t have to bother with that tiny crochet-thread stuff. I use an F, G, and H hook; and I make the shapes first later sewing them together using the back loops only.

*Note: Don’t let anyone out there convince you that you can’t do something like this on your own. I know geometry can be complicated sometimes, but it’s not very difficult to bring your own ideas to fruition. Think about this: Create or find your own shape patterns, trace them on fabric, and then cut out a zillion copies of the shapes in fabric. Then you can grab your son’s T-Rex doll and start taping those shapes all over it until they fit. Heck, use my shape pattern, make one of each, trace them and go for your own creations as well! You are creative and you should express that!

*One last note: I would not give this to a tiny, tiny kid that can’t process not to eat stuffing. If I was a tiny kid, I would think the stuffing you can see through my shape patterns would look so yummy. I would totally eat that stuffing like the fair only came around once a year and there was no where else to get cotton candy. Yep. I’d swallow chunks of it like I was a vindictive dog that walked in on an abandoned bowl of the cat’s food that the kitty hadn’t noticed yet. Yummy. Is that disclaimer clear enough? Tee-hee, *snort*

I made these hexagon, pentagon, and square patterns, because I am a lazy crocheter, as my ghoulz know, and I have a lot of pain in my joins and my vision is bad, so I loath trying to work with tiny hooks and tiny yarn. Hopefully these shapes will be large enough for all my achy-ghoulz out there not to go cross-eyed. I use only 3 hook sizes: a G hook and an F hook, (and briefly an H hook with 2 strands of yarn held together to make the paws curve, which you could substitute with the G hook if you really want). Again, I use these larger hooks so they’re easier to see and work with. I like bigger hooks; what can I say? Instant gratification pleases me! You can probably alter any hexagon patterns you find out there to make interesting hexagon critters like our grandmas used to make as long as you have a matching size hexagon, pentagon, and square pattern. I don’t add any construction images here because I decided to go for this as a pattern rather than a tutorial. The reason I made this pattern is because I created the bear for my mom as a Christmas gift and I’m always wishing people would jot down what they do as they go along when they make random patterns so that they have a reference to give when people say, “Ermegersh! How do I make mine?!” It’s really not as complicated as it looks. I’ll tell you the number of shapes for each body part and I have faith in you! You can figure it out just like I eventually did! What I did was make all my shapes and then I sewed them together later. If you are insecure about how to connect them, simply do what I did while playing with it and don’t tie a zillion knots in your connecting yarn so that you can just pull it all out if you get it all together and then realize you have one backward shape, lolz! (That happened to me quite a few times…)

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* First thing’s first. Here is how I made the hexagons, pentagons, and square, but before you get started check each section to see which hook size to use and how many of each to use for the different body parts.

Tiny hexagon:

Rnd 1: Ch 5, join in the first chain to form a ring. Working this round in the ring, ch 1, (sc, ch 3,) 6 times. Join with a sl st in first sc. (6 sets of ch-3 arches.)

Rnd 2: Join with a sl st in any ch-3 space. Ch 1. Work 5 sc in each ch-3 space around. Join with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 3: Working in back loops only for the entire round: Join with a sl st in the center st of any 5-sc spots. Ch 3 (works as first dc, ch-1), sc in the next 4 sc, ch 1, dc in the next (center) sc, ch 1. (sc in next 4 sc, ch 1, dc in center sc, ch 1) 5 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd chain of the first ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Tiny Pentagon:

Rnd 1: Ch 5, join in the first chain to form a ring. Working this round in the ring, ch 1, (sc, ch 3,) 5 times. Join with a sl st in first sc. (5 sets of ch-3 arches.)

Rnd 2: Join with a sl st in any ch-3 space. Ch 1. Work 5 sc in each ch-3 space around. Join with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 3: Working in back loops only for the entire round: Join with a sl st in the center st of any 5-sc spots. Ch 3 (works as first dc, ch-1), sc in the next 4 sc, ch 1, dc in the next (center) sc, ch 1. (sc in next 4 sc, ch 1, dc in center sc, ch 1) 4 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd chain of the first ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Tiny Square: (nose and below the ears)

Rnd 1: Ch 5, join in the first chain to form a ring. Working this round in the ring, ch 1, (sc, ch 3,) 4 times. Join with a sl st in first sc. (4 sets of ch-3 arches.)

Rnd 2: Join with a sl st in any ch-3 space. Ch 1. Work 5 sc in each ch-3 space around. Join with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 3: Working in back loops only for the entire round: Join with a sl st in the center st of any 5-sc spots. Ch 3 (works as first dc, ch-1), sc in the next 4 sc, ch 1, dc in the next (center) sc, ch 1. (sc in next 4 sc, ch 1, dc in center sc, ch 1) around. Join with a sl st in the 3rd chain of the first ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Special Hexagon for the ear. (Make two)

Work the hexagon the same as above through round 2.

Then for round 3 you’re basically adding less stitches to make the shape curve: Working in back loops only around, join with a sl st in any st, (ch 1, sc) in same st as join. Sc in next st and each st around. Join with a sl st in first sc.
Fold the hexagon in half and stitch it into a half circle type shape. It should curve slightly. Attach to head by curving them along the back edge of each ear-square patch.

bear-top-view

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Head:

Using G hook for all, make:
5 hexagons
6 pentagons
1 square for nose
2 squares for ear patches
2 special hexagons for the ears.

The construction of the head, I feel, can only be explained by looking at pictures of the head and placing the squares, hexagons, and pentagons where you see them. I will add pictures of the head so that you can see where to put the shapes. Since they’re all made with the same hook size, all you really have to worry about is placing them correctly.

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Body:

Using 2 different hook sizes on the shapes for the body will give the body a little more of a slight hourglass shape than if you used the same hook size on all the shapes; then it would be cylindrical. The bottom of body shapes will be made using G hook so that it is wider down there. The middle section is made with an F hook so that it will be slightly smaller and dip in, and the top part with an F hook so that it will be a tick smaller than the bottom (hips). There will be 32 motifs total.

G hook: 1 hexagon that you will use for the very top of the body after Rnd 5.
7 hexagons, 6 pentagons

The 7 hexagons and 6 pentagons mentioned above will be used like this:

The Base = 1 of these G-hook hexagons. I say that Rnd 1 is worked around this one hexagon.
Rnd 1= (from the bottom-up, working around the base hexagon) is made of these 6 G hook pentagons.
Rnd 2 = (the round you’ll attach above round 1) is made of the other 6 hexagons.

F hook: 6 hexagons (These will make the very middle of body, which is Rnd 3)
6 hexagons, 6 pentagons (Hexagons make Rnd 4, and Pentagons Rnd 5)
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Arms: (Make two)

Each arm will have 8 hexagons total.

The first hexagon of each arm, (the outer paws because it will cause a very slight bend when attached to the normal hexagon and give the normal hexagon a palm type curve), you will hold two yarn strands together and use an H hook for round 1 and then go back to using one yarn strand and a G hook for rounds 2 and 3.

The rest of the hexagons (7 more for each arm) will be done with a G hook.

I also don’t see very much difference with just making all the hexagons the same with the G hook all the way through and single strands of yarn, and simply making 8 for each arm. So if the alteration for the first one sounds too complicated, just make ‘em all the same and it’ll be okay too. Like I said, this construction is basic, so unless you do something drastic to change the hook/yarn size, it’s simple physics as to how it goes together.

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Legs: (Make two)

9 motifs total for each leg.

There will be 2 pentagons (bottom of foot) and 7 hexagons (one for the top of the toes, two for the heel, and 4 for the legs.

Use a G hook for 6 of the hexagons, but for one hexagon, (which will be the top of the foot, or the toes) , you will use an H hook and two strands of yarn held together for round 1, and then return to the G hook and one strand of yarn for rounds 2 and 3.

1st pentagon: (This will be the underside of the toes.) For rounds 1 and 2 you will use an H hook and two strands of yarn held together. Then for round 3 you will return to a G hook and a single strand of yarn.

2nd pentagon: (This will be the heel) For round 1 you will use an H hook and two strands of yarn held together, and then return to G hook and single strand of yarn for rounds 2 and 3.

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Construction:

When I sew together the hexagons/pentagons/square, I use a yarn needle and I hold the shapes against one another as if I’m keeping the wrong sides together, even though they are constructed side-by-side, and I sew them through their back loops only. This gives that pleasant outlining you can see around each of my shapes. If you use the entire stitch you won’t have that effect, but it’ll still be cute!

I used buttons for the eyes, and when I attached the arms and legs I threaded thick yarn thread through the button on one side of the body, the arm, and all the way through to the other button. Doing it that way will allow you to move the legs and arms instead of sewing them on stiff. If that’s complicated and you don’t feel like getting fancy, just sew them right onto the body!

back loops only

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bear-and-pamela

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Zombie Heart Luvz Crochet Pattern

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Zombie Heart Luvz

I used an F hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.

Make two hearts as described in the free pattern at this awesomely awesome link:

http://jose-crochet.blogspot.nl/2012/09/free-pattern-heart.html

Just to be clear, I did not create the heart pattern. I found it at the above link, but I joined the hearts as I describe below which is different from how she joined them. I think she used a lovely sc stitch around, but I went with a spikey feel for the zombie look.

When you are done making the two hearts, make the eyes and stitch them on, and add a mouth, nose, and any stitches you’d like to use to decorate your zombie heart. I like to add two stitches on the back. Here’s how I did my eyes:

Eyes:

Rnd 1) With black: Ch 2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)

Rnd 2) Ch 1, 2sc in each st around. Jn with sl st in first sc. (12 sc)

Rnd 3) Jn white with sl st in the back loop of any st. Working in back loops only, (ch 1, sl st in next st) around. Jn with a sl st in first st. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew eye to heart.

X-Eye:

With white: Repeat Rnds 1-3 above. Then add a black X with a yarn needle and black yarn.

Joining the Hearts (Border):

To attach the two hearts together, I put the wrong sides together and I worked the stitches in the corresponding back (inside) loops of both hearts to join them, stuffing when I came to the last couple of stitches. I didn’t use a yarn needle and just sew them together like I usually do to attach my projects, rather I just single crocheted around the hearts using the back loops of both rather than the entire stitch. This also helps to make the inner green part of the heart ‘pop’ with texture.

Jn at the bottom point, ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sc in same st as join. Sc in next st. (Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sc in next 2 sts) around.  When you get to the center stitch, if you’d like instead of adding a little spike there, you can chain 30 and sc back down that chain, and then continue by single crocheting in the next 2 sts so that you create your own little handle. Jn with a sl st in the first st. The original pattern also mentions something like that as well. It’s a super cute pattern, and you should check it out!

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Mushroom Square Free Crochet Pattern

Starling's Free Mushroom Square Pattern

Starling’s Free Mushroom Square Pattern

Mushroom Square Pattern

*I use Red Heart Super Saver yarn, and a K hook for the square, and an F hook for the spots.

With K hook:

Rnd 1) With Red: Ch 2, work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Jn with sl st in first sc. (6 sc)

Rnd 2) Ch 1, 2 sc in same st and each st around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (12 sc)

Rnd 3) Ch 1, 2 sc in same st, sc in next st, (2sc, sc) 3 more times, 2sc in next st, then switch your color to white, sc in the next st, 2sc, sc in the last st. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (18 sc)

Rnd 4) Still working with white: Ch 1, turn. 2sc in same st as join. Sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc. Switch to Red. (2sc, sc, sc) around to end. Jn with sl st in first sc. (24 sc)

Rnd 5) Still working with Red, Ch 1, turn. 2sc in same st as join. sc, sc, sc, (2sc, sc, sc, sc) 3 times, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, switch to white. Sc in next 2 sts, 2sc, sc in last 3 sts. Jn with sl st in first sc. (30 sc)

Rnd 6) Turn work and begin with background color, not in the same st as join, but beginning in the next st. Sc one in this st with the background color and then switch back to white. With white, sc in next 4 st, 2sc, sc, then switch to background color again and work one single crochet in the next st, then switch to Red. Sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st. (Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 4 times. Jn with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off Red. (36 sc)

Rnd 7) Turn work. Work in the back loops only in this round to make your mushroom appear a little more 3 dimensional! Your mushroom should now be right-side-up. Jn your background color with a sl st in the same st as the ending join in Rnd 6. This should be a background color stitch that you’re joining it to. Ch 1, hdc in same st. In next st create your first corner, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc), hdc in next 8 sts. Repeat from * 3 more times except leave one hdc off of very last 8 sts, so do 7 sts instead of 8. Jn with a sl st in first hdc.

Rnd 8) Ch 1, sc in same st and around, and in each corner work 3 sc. Jn with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Circles:

*Remember to use an F hook for the circles.

Rnd 1) Ch 2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook. Jn w/a sl st in first sc. (6 sc)

Rnd 2) Ch 1, 2sc in same st and around. Jn w a sl st in first sc. Fastn off leaving tail long enough to sew spot to mushroom. (12 sc)

Sew spots to mushroom and stitch one some eyes.

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Cover for my footstool!

before and after footstool

I can NOT find the free pattern for the square that I used as the center of this foot stool, but I found a free square pattern online for the center of this project. To make the square large enough to fit, I simply started adding double crochet granny square-type rounds until it was wide enough, and then worked the rows with the exact same amount of stitches to make it go straight down the sides of the stool. (Meaning that in the corners I stopped doubling up the stitch clusters and treated them the same as I worked along the sides so it would stop getting larger and instead stay the same width. That’s how I make my hats, too. I work a wider and wider circle outward until the hat is as wide as I want it, and then I work straight down like I’m creating a cylinder shape.) Finally to make it a little more tight, I added a single crochet round or two.

I used a K hook and Red Heart Super Saver yarn. 

If anyone knows what pattern this is, comment and let me know so I can share with everyone! (I have a whole bag of the center circles where I started to make a throw, and then I only got around to making about ten complete squares before I sat the project aside. Now I can’t find the pattern to finish it.)

Behold! My footstool!

IMG_3322

IMG_3323

 

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Craftyghoul’s Color Inspiration Spam Day on Facebook! Jan. 25th, 2014!

craftyghoul color wheel final

It’s January, and time for us to plan our projects! If you need inspiration on color combinations, I’ve been surfing around to find some! Join me on the Craftyghoul Facebook Page all day, (8AM-5PM), or join me every day to check out all the neat finds and FREE patterns that I dig up! If you can’t make it during the spam day, don’t forget to check the page and scan down through all the colorful posts at the end of the day!

Find your own favorite color schemes or online pictures, and share and link to them in the comments during Spam Day, (or even after spam day), to help all our ghoul friendz to find the perfect look! Don’t be shy to share your own projects for inspiration if you’re proud of your work too! Show it off, ghoulz! I luvz ya!

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Death Metal Ode to Crochet, Written by me!!! (Starling)

Death Metal Ode to Crochet
Written by: Starling

I’m born to crochet
Bring death like mummifiers!
As I’m stitching you
Are starting to perspire!

Thoughts getting stringy
I’m unwinding my Death Yarn!
Now you are screaming
No more can you use your arms!

Chorus is sung in a high opera voice with slow pretty music:
~
Crochet all night long
Twisting this hook
I weave dark beauty
like stories in books!
~

Ancient craft demands
A sacrifice of cotton!
                                                           Amigurumis (pronounced: ah-mee-goo-roo-mee)
Their revenge shall be rotten!

Now I must relax
Holy Text instructs ‘chain loose’
With comforting thoughts
Of gifting you this soft noose!

~
Repeat Chorus
~

Lambs cool in summer
Romping without heavy coats!
You don their shed locks
They don’t care; they think you’re gross!

Behold decrease stitch!
The rounds are getting tighter!
Welcome to Craft Hell!
Yarn knots make tangled fire!

~
Repeat Chorus
~

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