Head Over Heels Granny Heart Hat Crochet Pattern

This is my actual hat on my favorite mannequin head, but I colored in the face and hair to give her a more anime look.

This is my actual hat on my favorite mannequin head, but I colored in the face and hair to give her a more anime look.

*A note before getting started for experienced crocheters and/or designers: I use the same basic construction to make any kind of square lined hat. I’ll go into further detail below, but to sum it up quickly for other pattern designers eager to put their own twist to this: First I create squares and sew them side-by-side until the strip is wide enough to fit my head nicely. Then I join my yarn on each side of the joined square strip and I add a single stitch round on each side as a border for the squares. For the crown, I make a circle with each round getting progressively larger at an even rate until the hate is as wide as the head I’m creating it for is. After that I switch to making single stitch rounds until the crown is long enough so that when I attach it to the square strip I already created it is the right length. When I want a slouchy beanie, I repeat the single stitch rounds several times to make the hat longer. (If you want an elf type hat, you can also add single stitch rounds to the earlier rounds I describe below instead of waiting until you get to the single stitch rounds to repeat it for length.) This is the basics of how I design all my hats. When I don’t have a square strip to add to the hat, I simply keep going when I repeat the single stitch rounds after making the crown.

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Pattern for Head Over Heels Granny Heart Hat

heart square

 

I use an F hook, a K hook, a yarn needle, and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. My heart squares are 3 inches by 3 inches, and my head is 22 inches around. The Craftyghoul hat model I made is about the same as my head, so the hat fits me exactly like it fits this model. I’m an average size adult chick.

Granny Heart Square:

I used an F hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. These hearts would also make cute blankets or used in the construction of kazillions of other things! My heart squares are 3 inches by 3 inches.

Rnd 1: With heart color: Ch 4, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2) into ring 4 times. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 2: Sl st to ch-2 space, (5dc, ch 1) in sc, sl st into next ch-2 space, ch 1, (5dc, ch 1) into next sc, sc into ch-2 space, ch 2, sk the sc stitch, dc into ch-2 space, ch 2, sk the sc stitch, sc in ch-2 space right before the sc where you added your first 5dc, (it might be hard to see is my I specify, but once you get the stitch in there it divideds the shape nicely), ch 1, jn with a sl st in first dc.Fasten off heart color.

Rnd 3: Jn background color in the back loop of the sc right after all the double crochets that have created both arches of the heart. Ch 2, (counts as first dc), 2dc into same back loop, ch 2, add another 3 dc into the same back loop. First corner created. Ch 1, and skip the corner ch-2 space altogether, sc in the back loop of the dc, ch 1, skip ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in the back loop of the sc, ch 1, sk first dc, (sc, hdc, dc) in back loop of next dc, ch 4, sk the next 3 dc, 3dc in the center corner where you sl stiched in Rnd 2 (basically you’re putting 3dc into that corner from Rnd 1), ch 4, sk next 3 dc, (dc, hdc, sc) in back loop of next dc, ch 1, jn with a sl st in first dc.

Rnd 4: Sl st to corner ch-2 space. Ch 2, (2dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 1) into corner chain, sk next 3 dc, (3dc, ch 1) in center sc, sk next 3 dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 1) into corner chain, sk next 3 dc, (3dc, ch 1) into ch-1 space, sk next 3 sts, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 1) into corner, sk one dc, (3dc, ch 1) into the center dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 1) into corner chain, sk next 3 sts, (3dc, ch 1) in next ch-1 space. Jn with a sl st in first dc.

*Note: If the squares you choose are juuuust too short when you add them next to each other to go around your head, but too long if you add another square, just add a single or double crochet row or two to one of the ends of the strip to give it those few extra centimeters.

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For border:

For the border and the rest of the hat, I used a K hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.

Jn with a sl st in the back loop of any stitch. Ch 2, working in back loops only around, dc in each stitch, skipping the ch-1 spaces. In each corner you will do a double crochet deacrease. So each square will have 9 dc stitches along it, and there will be one double crochet decrease stitch between each square to join them nice and snug. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Repeat this on the other side of the strip of squares.

For the second round along the bottom of the hat, continue to work in the back loops only if you want yours to look like mine, or you can work in the entire stitch if you prefer. Ch 1, hdc in same st, and in each st around. Jn with a sl st in first hdc.

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Crown of hat:

This is the same basic pattern I use for all of my hats. There is a repeating pattern to make each round a little wider, and when it gets to your specific preference for how wide, you then simply add double crochet rounds until the hat is as tall as you’d like it, either making it fit your head perfectly, or you can even add many more rounds to create a slouchy beanie! For a children’s hat, simply make less of the growing rounds before you start the repeating double crochet rounds.

Crown of the hat:
*Use a K hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.
*On any rounds after I switch colors, I like to work in the back loops only of the round with the new color, but this isn’t necessary unless you also like the little ‘line’ that appears as a result as well. In this particular hat I used the same color on everything except the heart squares.
Rnd 1: Ch 4, join to form a ring. Ch 2, (counts as dc here and throughout pattern), 9dc in ring. Jn in first dc to close round here and at the end of each rnd. (10 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (20 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, (dc, 2dc) around. Join. (30 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, Dc in next st, 2 dc, (dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (40 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (50 dc)
Rnds 6: Ch 2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (60 dc)
*Note: If you want the hat wider, you can add another round here of increasing before going on to Rnd 7. I stop at round six and rarely feel like I need to add around 7 at all, but sometimes the yarn or the size of squares I used will make me add another round or two. My head is about 22 inches around. You can continue the widening pattern with a round of: (dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) around. If you are using a smaller hook and find that the hat isn’t even almost big enough, add another few rounds inthe same manner before continuing on to Rnd 7, which would look like this: (Dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st) around. (Dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st) around… In the same way if the hat is getting too wide, you can stop at round 4 or 5 and skip straight to Rnd 7. That’s useful if you’re making a hat for a kiddo.

Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. Jn. Repeat this round until hat his desired length when you add the square strip of the hat) If you’re making a normal beanie, this will probably only be a round or two. I personally only add Rnd 7 and sometimes only one more round before I fasten off and leave a tail long enough to sew this crown to the bottom strip of squares. When I make a slouchy beanie, though, I add round 7 and then repeat Rnd 7 six or seven more times before fastening off and sewing the top to the bottom square strip.
* Sew the crown of the hat to the strip of squares with a yarn hook by weaving the needle in and out of the back (inside) loops. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

This heart hat design was inspired by a Zelda heart necklace my hubby, Master Betty, got for me for Valentine’s Day! I put the necklace on my Craftyghoul model so you can see the it too!

heart hat and necklace

heart square hat left side facing

 

heart square hat back view

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Prayer Shawls, Comfort Wraps, Healing Shawls

prayer shawl art for craftyghoul gray background black hair

Prayer shawls, comfort wraps, healing shawls. They’re known by many names, and their definitions and uses are just as diverse: weddings, births, mourning, birthdays, home illnesses or hospital stays, welcoming gifts, rights of passage, and so much more! The feeling of wrapping yourself up in a shawl perfectly symbolizes the emotional and spiritual message you want to convey with the gift: comfort, warmth, security, peace…

The basics to know are that you, alone or with a group of people, make shawls and give them to someone for comfort, support, celebration, etc… Sometimes you will know the person the shawl will be going to, so you can personalize it greatly, or sometimes you and/or your group wants to make piles of shawls to hand out as necessity comes along.

In the case of prayer shawls, different groups have their suggested ways of going about the prayer part, and it can be quite interesting. I’ve read that some pray for an individual person before, during, and after making the shawl for them. Sometimes there are predetermined prayers made to cover a wide range of situations so that you can make the shawls and put those positive thoughts and your energy into the project before you even know who it’s for; or even if you’ll never know who it’s for. Other times I’ve read that making the shawl is a good time to listen to your Bible on audio and simply be in the spirit while working on it. Some even get a group together and have a bible study while they stitch away taking turns reading, leading, and stitching. I don’t think you can really go wrong here with the sweet intentions and focusing on your holy text. I think that making shawls for people in the first place is very thoughtful and kind, and any more love and concern you put into the project only deepens the experience in a healthy way for you and the recipient.

If you don’t know of a group in your area, or if this sounds like a fun project for you but you don’t really know how to zero in on where it’s needed, there are many established organizations out there you can join up with, and I’ll link to a few. These places will give you advice on what type of yarn to use, patterns, their favorite methods of prayer if that is involved, and their mission statements will let you know if they’re a place that speaks to your heart or not right away.

Prayer Shawl Ministry

The Blessing Center 

If you’re not so sure about committing to an unknown charity, or you feel that an organization is needed in your own home town or within your church, it is not very difficult to begin one on your own. If you are a busy person, you can always make a shawl here and there and give them to your church to give to anyone they feel needs the comfort. Pastor’s usually do a lot of visiting the sick and elderly, and they also are one of the first one’s to hear about when someone passes away and there are heartbroken family members in need of comfort. When people choose to do this individual style, they often times print out a little explanation about what a comfort shawl is and what went into it. For example, maybe the note would mention that you prayed for peace, God’s presence in the recipient’s life, or comfort, but be very careful what you put on there. You don’t want to say happy cliche things to someone who’s grieving and sad. It’s also never good to wind up sounding prophetic instead of just being a well-wisher. So…no promises about how things will look up, or if they wear the shawl good things will come to them and bad things won’t happen, or don’t say the next time the phone rings while they wear the shawl they’ll win a million dollars. Okay, so maybe that last part was obvious, but still…just be supportive in a calm, neutral kinda way. Lionbrand Yarn has a page with pointers about what to say with these notes, and they even have a downloadable card that you can print out and use for your project. I love how they phrase their advice on this topic. Check it out here.

Here is a note I organized that you can use as much as you need to print out or you can use the phrasing and organize it onto business cards. I made it with a white background, a black background, and a simple Times New Roman Font, and also a personalized looking font if you’d like that better. If you pick your own font, make sure it isn’t difficult to read, and again try and fit the situation. A party font might be odd for a somber situation:

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If you have more time on your hands, (or more yarn and a stitching addiction that leaves you elbow deep in shawls even after you’ve made one for everyone you know), then it’s a good time to begin looking around for someone who is always in the know of someone that needs comfort. Again I’d suggest looking to your church, but if you don’t go to a church, you can check women’s shelters, retirement homes, or even have a heart-to-heart with someone at the funeral home that can work as your eyes and ears with a stash of your shawls in their office ready to hand out to that one person that is so, so, so alone and looks like, more than anything, they could use some personal consolation. Oh, man…now I have to go watch a funny video to get that out of my mind. *Sniffle*  Sorry if that brought you down. Here, watch the trololol guy video, or the Re Dub of the Whistler Guy.

If you’re starting a group, or simply going for a few shawls on your own here and there, just remember to use soft, cuddly yarn, (my favorite for these types of projects is Lion Brand Homespun.) People like to be thought of, and they like free stuff. At least, that’s my impression of the world. For information on colors to symbolize certain awareness/support subjects, you can check out the awareness ribbon meaning chart on this wiki page for ideas!

I’ve also put together a lady wrapped in a shawl using the paint tool on my computer. I don’t mind if you use this image for charity purposes. There’s the gray background version at the beginning of this post, or you could even use it in the manner of a card:

prayer shawl art for craftyghoul card set up

I’m going to include lot’s of links to FREE shawl patterns that I’ve found in different places online. You can click on the image to take you to the pattern. Some of these were labeled as prayer/comfort shawls, and others I added because they look similar enough to me to be used as a simple shawl for the purpose. I’m also adding several shawls/wraps that have extra little details, trim, and a more complicated pattern in case the situation you’re making the shawl for isn’t for a somber subject. The right color combination and type of yarn can turn tons of patterns into the perfect shawl for a particular situation, or even make them a nice neutral shawl to be used as needed. Personally, I’m a lazy crocheter and like instant gratification, so when I choose patterns I pick ones that look like they use larger, more spread out stitches so that I can make the project more quickly. I get excited to do a project, then I’m excited to finish it and see how it turns out too! If something takes too long I lose focus, but many crocheters adore putting those finer touches on their work, and it really shows in your finished project! If you’re not sure which type of shawl pattern to choose, just go for simple. If someone is sick or elderly and you think they might get tangled in a larger/longer wrap, go for the smaller shoulder wrap variety. You don’t want to gift a tiny little ol’ lady a 6 foot shawl that she’ll wind up tripping over and putting her right back in the hospital just after her last broken hip healed! If you feel the recipient needs warmth and comfort, though, they might want something that will swallow them up so they can hide in it. Be confident with you decisions, for all you need is a little empathy to make an appropriate choice, and if you’re not sure you can choose a plain variety that is a medium size. You can do this! 🙂

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Other cute designs for random occasions:

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Granny Jellyfish Crochet Pattern

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Granny Jellyfish Crochet Pattern

I use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, a yarn needle, and an F and K hook.

*Note: I like joining my shapes using the back loops only. You can do whatever you’re comfortable with! The body for the jellyfish is made the same way as my Petapus (Octopus) body, and then you construct the jellyfish bumper and sew it onto the body. I’ll explain again how to do the body.

For Body, use a K hook and make 4 altered Pentagons:

Rnd 1: Ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, (2hdc, ch 1) 5 times. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Jn or sl st to the first of any of the two hdc stitches, ch 1. Beginning in same st as join, *Sc, sc, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the ch-1 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 3: Jn or sl st to the first of any two single crochet stitches. Beginning in same st as join, (Sc, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, dc, hdc in ch-1 space), twice. Sc, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, hdc, dc, dc in ch-1 space, dc, dc in ch-1 space, hdc, hdc, sc in ch-1 space, sc, hdc in last ch-1 space. Jn in first sc.

Sew the four pentagons together.

To create the bottom 3 rounds of the body:
Working in back loops only, jn yarn with a sl st along the bottom of the project. Ch 1, hdc in same st as jn. Hdc in each st around, and in each of the the places where two shapes are joined you’ll treat the corners as one hdc by doing a dc decrease bewteen them. After that I add two more hdc rounds, joining each round with a sl st in the first hdc. Do not fasten off after last round.

Very bottom of body:
Ch 2, and working in back loops only, dc decrease around. Jn with a sl st in the first dc-dec stitch. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew the bottom opening closed. Stuff the body well and then sew it closed. (I also like to leave a long enough tail to thread it up through the center of the body after I sew it closed to use to hang the Pentapus for decoration.)

Bumper for the jellyfish:

For the bumper you will make two rows of side-by-side pentagons, connect each one to create two separate rings of pentagons, and then join them together on each side to create a mini doughnut. (Incidentally, if you need a Doughnut-gon, or a Pentanut…Doughnut, here ya go!) Then you’ll slide that onto the body and stitch it in place.

IMG_3481

For the top round of the bumper, use an F hook and make 9 petagons using only Rnd 1 and 2 of above pentagon. Sew these side by side with the flat ends of the pentagons in line. The other side will make a jagged appearance, which you will fit the bottom round into like a little monster’s sharp teeth. What? Is that a weird analogy?

For the bottom round of the bumper, use a K hook and make 9 pentagons using only Rnd 1. Sew them together side by side in the same way as the top bump, and then attach the jagged end of this neatly into the jagged part of the top of the bumper.

Sew the two flat edges together, stuffing as you go along, then fasted off leaving the tail long enough to sew the bumper to the body. Slide the bumper onto the body with the 2-round pentagons on top and the flat joined edges should be facing the body so that seem will be hidden in the finished project.

 
Jellyfish tendrils:

I make three of each: curls and straight, but you can experiement to see what you think is best!

Curl: Ch 40, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch up the hook. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew tendril to body.

Straight: Ch 40, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew to body.

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Cute eyes:
Use F (3.75 MM) hook for the eyes.
(Make two.)
Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: With white and working in back loops only, join with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in back loop of next st, (2 sc in the back loop of next st, 1 sc in back loop of next st) around. Join with a sl st in 1st sc. Don’t fasten off. (18 sc) For pupil, you will now chain 4 and sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 ch. Sl st in front loop of next st. Fasten off with tail long enought to sew pupil to eye and the eye to head. Fold strip down into the black of the eye and sew it into place.

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Pentapus: Granny Octopus Crochet Pattern

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Pentapus: Granny Octopus Crochet Pattern

I use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, a yarn needle, and an F and K hook.

*Note: I like joining my shapes using the back loops only. You can do whatever you’re comfortable with!

For Body, use a K hook and make 4 altered Pentagons:

Rnd 1: Ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, (2hdc, ch 1) 5 times. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Jn or sl st to the first of any of the two hdc stitches, ch 1. Beginning in same st as join, *Sc, sc, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the ch-1 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 3: Jn or sl st to the first of any two single crochet stitches. Beginning in same st as join, (Sc, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, dc, hdc in ch-1 space), twice. Sc, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, sc, hdc in ch-1 space, hdc, dc, dc in ch-1 space, dc, dc in ch-1 space, hdc, hdc, sc in ch-1 space, sc, hdc in last ch-1 space. Jn in first sc.

Sew the four pentagons together.

 

To create the bottom 3 rounds of the body:

Working in back loops only, jn yarn with a sl st along the bottom of the project. Ch 1, hdc in same st as jn. Hdc in each st around, and in each of the the places where two shapes are joined you’ll treat the corners as one hdc by doing a dc decrease bewteen them. After that I add two more hdc rounds, joining each round with a sl st in the first hdc. Do not fasten off after last round.

Very bottom of body:
Ch 2, and working in back loops only, dc decrease around. Jn with a sl st in the first dc-dec stitch. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew the bottom opening closed. Stuff the body well and then sew it closed. (I also like to leave a long enough tail to thread it up through the center of the body after I sew it closed to use to hang the Pentapus for decoration.)

body of pentapus

Hexi-legs on a Pentapus:

I make only five legs because it’s a Pentapus…but if you want more or less legs, have at it!

Use an F hook and make 6 hexagons per leg. Attach hexagons so that each side of the leg comes to a point. (Hexagon pattern below.) Attaching the legs with a pointed end will make them pleasantly floppy. If you prefer stiff legs, then make two pentagons instead of the last two hexagons, and then fit those two pentagons into the bottom instead of hexagons so that the leg will have a round opening as more of a cylindrical shape on one end, while the other end will still end in a point with the hexagons. Then you can place the leg where you’d like it and sew around it in a stiff circle. I preffer floppy legs, personally.

Hexagon:

Rnd 1: Ch 3. In 3rd ch from hook, (2hdc, ch 1) 6 times. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Jn or sl st to the first of any of the two hdc stitches, ch 1. Beginning in same st as join, *Sc, sc, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the ch-1 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

IMG_3490

IMG_3491

 

I then added my anime eyes:

Cute eyes:
Use F (3.75 MM) hook for the eyes.
(Make two.)
Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: With white and working in back loops only, join with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in back loop of next st, (2 sc in the back loop of next st, 1 sc in back loop of next st) around. Join with a sl st in 1st sc. Don’t fasten off. (18 sc) For pupil, you will now chain 4 and sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 ch. Sl st in front loop of next st. Fasten off with tail long enought to sew pupil to eye and the eye to head. Fold strip down into the black of the eye and sew it into place.

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Love and War Chunky Throw Crochet Pattern

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Often times opposing forces combine to make the most captivating stories and the most beautiful acts in nature;  love and war, roses and thorns, storms and rainbows. In the world of crochet we can use classic combinations to weave passionate tales of our own, such as slash stitches and lace stitches, and then use the finished tome to curl up with a cup of hot chocolate and story that was written with words to delight every one of our senses at once. Be careful not to get overwhelmed, lest you start phrasing everything you say with a little too much dramatization, like me…

I used 2 Strands of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn held together and a size N (9.00MM) hook.

Note: Chunky yarn can be really expensive, but I luvz the instant gratification and the cozy warmth that comes with chunky projects, so I often times use 2 strands of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. This blanket took me about 2 skeins per 2 strips…so about a skein per strip. It was difficult to tell at first since I use two skeins at the same time. Another reason I worked in strips instead of working straight up the blanket is because I hate it when I’m off on my prediction of how much yarn I’m going to need, and then I finish 1/2 or 3/4 a project and then the store suddenly doesn’t carry that color anymore. This way I can sew the strips together later, so if I wind up picking a complimentary color instead of working right through, I only wind up remaking one or two strips if any at all. I also join the strips later because I love the textured effect of using the back loops only when I join them.

V-stitch: (Dc, ch 1, dc) into space indicated.

Pattern for One Strip (I make 7 or 8 strips for a lap throw)

Rw 1: Ch 100. Dc in 4th ch from hook and across stopping before the last chain. Chain 3 and jn with a sl st in that last chain. The ch-3 will take space of your last dc. (98 dc.)

Rw 2: Now pivot your work so that you’re working back up the original chain. I do this to disguise the chain row because they tend to look a little tighter than the rest of a project, so I want to make it easier to join and keep it from having a skewed appearance. Ch 3, (works as the first dc) sk first dc, dc in next ch, sk next 2 chs, v-st in next dc. *Sk next 2 ch, v-st in next ch. Repeat from * to last 4 chs. Skip next ch, dc in next dc, dc in the top of ch-3. (Might be dc to the last 4 st, sk next 2 ch, dc in next dc, dc in the top of ch-3. See which you do the next time or two.)

Rws 3-4: Ch 3, turn. Skip first dc, dc in next dc, sk next dc, v-st in next ch-1 space. *Sk next 2dc, v-st in next ch-1 space. *Repeat from * to last 3 sts. Sk next dc, dc in next dc, dc in top of ch-3.

Rw 5: Ch 3, turn. Sk first dc, dc in next 2 dc. *Dc in next ch-1 space, dc in next 2 dc. Repeat from * to last st. Dc in top of ch-3.

Rw 6 ( Center Slash Row): Ch 2, turn. Dc in next 2 st. (Ch 3, sk next 3 st, dc in next 4 st) across to last three stitches, sk next dc, dc in next st and dc in the top of the ch-3.

*Note: If you’ve lost count with so many stitches, don’t fret as long as it’s not grossly off count. Just add a couple dc or decrease here and there in the double crochet rows as you go along. When I work this project I sometimes have 2 or 3 stitches left after my last 4 double crochet in row 6, and sometimes I have 4 stitches. I don’t make a big deal out of it and I just dc in what I have left and move on to row 7. If you’re not sure, your work should not be growing or shrinking, which means you should have about 98 sts in every row. You can adjust easily as you go along without having to unravel the whole thing as long as you catch it sooner than later. This is another of Starling’s lazy tips, and no one ever sits there counting out the 98 stitches per row on my blankets like, “Man…I have this strange feeling that you might be off a stitch…I think there are 97 in this one row…and maybe 99 in that one…”

Rw 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc across working 3 dc in each ch-3 space.

Rw 8-11: Repeat Rws 2-5. Fasten off after Row 11.

 Rows

Border:

Rnd 1: Jn with a sl st somewhere along the top. (Ch 4, dc) in same st. (Skip next 2 stitches, V-stitch) around. In each corner, work (V-st, ch 1, V-st). Along the sides where the stitch placement is not clear, you can use your best judgement. I count each row as the equivilant of 2 stitches, and this gives me about 7 V-stitches per each strip along the sides.

Rnd 2: In each ch-1 of the V-stitches, (sc, sc, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc). Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Joining:

I like joining the strips by putting the wrong sides against one another and joining them with a yarn needle using the back loops only. This is how I get the pleasant textured look between the strips. Make sure you pick one side to be the front of your blanket so that you remember to position the strips the same so that you have the textured areas all on the same side that is facing up.

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Starling’s Kawaii Crochet Anime Kitty

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Starling’s Crochet Anime Kitty

* I use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, a yarn needle, and an F and a K hook. For the body and for ALL squares, use a K hook. For the head motifs use an F hook.

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Number of Motifs

Head: (Remember to use an F hook on all of these.)
9 hexagons
4 squares
4 altered hexagons for the ears

Body: (Remember to use a K hook for all of these except for F hook on the 4 squares.)
21 hexagons
10 pentagons
4 squares

Tail: (Remember to use an F hook for all squares.)                                                                    8 squares

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Hexagon, Pentagon, and Square, and Ear Pattern

Hexagon:

Ch 4, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: (Sc, ch 2) into the ring 6 times. Jn with a sl st in the first sc.

Rnd 2: Jn with a sl st in any sc. *Sc into the sc stitch, (sc, dc) into the ch-2 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Square:

Ch 4, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: (Sc, ch 2) into the ring 4 times. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 2: Jn with a sl st in any sc. *Sc into the sc stitch, (sc, dc) into the ch-2 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Pentagon:

Ch 4, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: (Sc, ch 2) into the ring 5 times. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Rnd 2: Jn with a sl st in any sc. *Sc into the sc stitch, (sc, dc) into the ch-2 space. Repeat from * around. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

Altered Hexagon for Ears:

Rnd 1: Using an F hook like for the other hexagons, Do this round the same as Rnd 1 for the above hexagon.

Rnd 2: In this round switch to a size K hook. Jn with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, sc into the same st, (sc, dc) in ch-2 space. Repeat from * one more time. Hdc in next sc stitch, 2hdc into the ch-2 space, hdc in next sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next ch-2 space, **hdc in the next sc, 2hdc in next ch-2 space. Repeat from ** one more time. Jn with a sl st in first sc.

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Placing of the Shapes

For the tail, I put the top two squares together point-up…so I guess they’re technically diamonds. *Snort*. I sew the top two sides together, and then the next 2 squares fit into the angle that the remaining unworked sides make. I continue on like that until the tail is as long as I want it to be. When attaching the tail I mush the last two points down against the hexagon on the body in the ‘tail spot’ and use that as a rough guide to attach the tail. So if you’re making a bobcat kitty, you can use less squares and make a stubby tail.

For the body, the 5 hexagons make each of the sides, and the hexagons make up the rest. The placing of the hexagons in the corners can be tricky, but you can do it!

The rest are hexagons.

The rest are hexagons.

For the head, the squares are used to create the filler on the bottom and on the sides, and one hexagon will be the top of the head. The front and back of the head are constructed in the same way, so I make those first and then try to stitch the others in place as I join the front and back.

front and back of head

squares will go here

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Joining

I often times like joining by using the back loops only, but if you join with the entire stitch, I think that will be cute too! I use a yarn needle, and I like to use a different color yarn so the stitches stand out against the edges for a Frankenstein kinda look. If you want it to blend in the simply use the same color as the outside of your shapes.

For the feet, you want to try and make them pointed, so the point of the bottom hexagon will fold in on itself and you stitch it together, but the space between the attached shapes make a perfect spot to add a square. You can tell where the one square will go on each leg when you pinch the leg in half. It might be easier to decide if you’re connecting the legs to the right edges if you connect the center of the body first. the very middle pentagon, and the half of each pentagon on either side of it, will be stitched together directly across. If you do that first or at least hold that part together it might be easier for you to keep up with evenly stitching up the leg. If you are slightly off, you don’t have to worry too much because it will most likely just give the cat a look as if he is taking a step. If you’re off a lot then I don’t know what kind of H.P. Lovecraft creature will come out of it….hehehehehe…

joining

Oh...dat leg...

Oh…dat leg…

head views

tail

Then all you need to do is stitch on a little nose and mouth, and decide whether to use buttons or the anime eyes. If you want anime eyes:

Use F (3.75 MM) hook for the eyes.
(Make two.)
Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: With white and working in back loops only, join with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in back loop of next st, (2 sc in the back loop of next st, 1 sc in back loop of next st) around. Join with a sl st in 1st sc. Don’t fasten off. (18 sc) For pupil, you will now chain 4 and sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 ch. Sl st in front loop of next st. Fasten off with tail long enough to sew pupil to eye and the eye to head. Fold strip down into the black of the eye and sew it into place.

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Pattern by Starling of Craftyghoul

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My Doughnut Crochet Hook Case!

So, I don’t really like eating doughnuts…but I luvz the idea of doughnuts. I luv it so much that I made a hook case out of doughnut fabric. If you want your own, you can check out my FREE tutorial for sew a crochet hook case here.

Sorry about the shadows in some of the pictures. Mizzy the Kitty was not going to move out of the spotlight.

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