Death Metal Ode to Crochet, Written by me!!! (Starling)

Death Metal Ode to Crochet
Written by: Starling

I’m born to crochet
Bring death like mummifiers!
As I’m stitching you
Are starting to perspire!

Thoughts getting stringy
I’m unwinding my Death Yarn!
Now you are screaming
No more can you use your arms!

Chorus is sung in a high opera voice with slow pretty music:
~
Crochet all night long
Twisting this hook
I weave dark beauty
like stories in books!
~

Ancient craft demands
A sacrifice of cotton!
                                                           Amigurumis (pronounced: ah-mee-goo-roo-mee)
Their revenge shall be rotten!

Now I must relax
Holy Text instructs ‘chain loose’
With comforting thoughts
Of gifting you this soft noose!

~
Repeat Chorus
~

Lambs cool in summer
Romping without heavy coats!
You don their shed locks
They don’t care; they think you’re gross!

Behold decrease stitch!
The rounds are getting tighter!
Welcome to Craft Hell!
Yarn knots make tangled fire!

~
Repeat Chorus
~

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How to Make a Granny Square Blanket (Or Simple Granny Square) for Beginners

If you understand the concept of a simple granny square then it can open up  a whole world of creative options for you! You can use the simple pattern to add more and more rounds to the square until you have a baby blanket, a throw, or even a comforter if you just keep going!

In another light, you can stop after only a few rounds and then construct all kinds of things by sewing the smaller squares together.

Right now I’m going to show you how to get those rounds started. You need to know how to chain and how to work a double crochet, and how to join with a slip stitch. If you don’t know how to do those or if you need a refresher, I’ve made a video tutorial for each which you can view here:

Magic Knot and How to Chain

How to Double Crochet

How to Slip Stitch. Fastening off. Joining to Form a Ring.

*Note: If the whole magic knot thing is too much to begin with, ignore it and just tie your yarn around the wide part or your hook, then double knot it. That’s what I usually do anyway. The magic knot just makes it look more smooth or something like that…but no one ever mentions noticing whether I use it or ‘knot’. Hehehe, *snort*.

I’ll also add a link to the simple written pattern so that once you get the hang of creating these squares you’ll have a place to glance over the pattern without all the pictures once you don’t need them.

*Note on hook size and yarn: When I make these squares, I’m using a size K (6.50MM) hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. The great thing about granny squares is that they can be so versatile very quickly. If you want smaller squares, you can use a smaller hook, like an F hook, for example.  If you’re like me and want to work things up more quickly, you can use a size N hook and tie two strands of yarn together to work with at the same time and make a chunky granny square blanket. It’s up to you and your favorite hooks! Just remember that the smaller the hook, the tighter the stitches will be, which can be very lovely, but also the smaller the hook the longer it’s going to take you. I go for larger hooks.

For more information on hooks, yarn, and other crochet equipment, click here.

 granny square tutorial

Written Pattern for Granny Square/Granny Square Blanket

Round One of Square

Round Two of Square

Round Three of Square

Notes on Further Rounds

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Pattern for Granny Square Blanket and/or simple Granny Square

Granny Square or Granny Square Blanket Pattern

*For a Granny Square, stop the rounds when the square is as large as you’d like it. For a Granny Square Blanket, keep repeating Round 4 until the blanket is as large as you’d like.

granny square b

Pattern Without Abbreviations for Beginners:

Round 1: Chain 6, join with a slip stitch in first chain to form a ring. Chain 2, (counts as first double crochet), work 2 double crochet into ring, chain 3, (3 double crochet, chain 3) three times. Join with a slip stitch in first double crochet. Slip stitch to chain-3 corner or fasten off and join yarn with a slip stitch in corner.

Round 2: Chain 2, (counts as first double crochet), (2 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 1) in same corner as join. (3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 1) in each corner around. Join with a slip stitch in first double crochet. Slip stitch to chain-3 corner or fasten off and join yarn with a slip stitch in corner.

Round 3: Chain 2, (counts as first double crochet), (2 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 1) in same corner as join. (3 double crochet, chain 1) in the chain-1 space from round 2. * (3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 1) in corner, (3 double crochet, chain 1) in chain-1 space from round 2. Repeat from * three times. Join with a slip stitch in first double crochet. Slip stitch to chain-3 corner or fasten off and join yarn with a slip stitch in corner.

Round 4: Chain 2, (counts as first double crochet), (2 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 1) in same corner as join. (3 double crochet, chain 1) in each chain-1 space from the round before all the way across to the next corner. *(3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 1) in next corner. (3 double crochet, chain 1) in each chain-1 space from the round before all the way across to the next corner. Repeat from * twice and join with a slip stitch in the first double crochet. Slip stitch to chain-3 corner or fasten off and join yarn with a slip stitch in corner.

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Simple Abbreviated Pattern Version:

Rnd 1: Ch 6, jn with sl st in first chain to form a ring. Ch 2, 2 dc in ring, ch 3, (3dc, ch 3) three times. Jn with sl st in first dc.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, (2dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in same corner as jn. (3dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1) in each corner around. Jn with sl st in first dc.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, (2dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in same corner as jn. (3dc, ch 1) in the ch-1 space from round 2. * (3dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in corner, (3dc, ch 1) in ch-1 space from rnd 2. Repeat from * two more times. Jn with sl st in first dc.

Rnd 4: Ch 2, (2dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in same corner as jn. (3dc, ch 1) in each ch-1 space from previous rnd across to other corner. * (3dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1) in next corner. (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch-1 space from the rnd before across to the next corner. Repeat from * twice and jn with a sl st in first dc.

Repeat Rnd 4 until square is as large as desired.

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Round One of Square

join to complete the square

Granny Square Tutorial Round One pink background

If you are going to change colors, or if this is as large as you want your square, then you can fasten off now.

If you are going to keep going around with this same color, then slip stitch up to the top right corner. That’s the closest corner to where you joined. When you begin your next round, you will begin in that corner. So you either slip stitch to that corner with the yarn you are using now, or you’ll simply join your new color with a slip stitch in that corner. I will explain more about that in the next part where we talk about round two, but just so you understand the concept of where this is going I thought I’d mention it now.

For Round Two of Square Blanket, click here.

side note round one

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Round Two of Square

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Round Two of Square

If you are going to keep going around with the same color from round one, then slip stitch up to the top right corner. That’s the closest corner to where you joined. When you begin Round 2, you will begin in that corner. So you either slip stitch to that corner with the yarn you are using now, or you’ll simply join your new color with a slip stitch in that corner. (The corner shown in the picture below.)

Granny Square Tutorial Round Two

If you are going to use the same color in the next round, slip stitch to the nearest corner, which will be your top right corner. If this is as large as you want the square or if you are going to switch colors, then fasten off from this color and join your new color with a slip stitch in that top right corner.

Click here to take you to Round Three

side note round two

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Round Three of Square

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Round Three of Square

If you are going to keep going around with the same color from round one, then slip stitch up to the top right corner. That’s the closest corner to where you joined. When you begin Round 3 and all future rounds after this, you will begin in that same top right corner. So you either slip stitch to that corner with the yarn you are using now, or you’ll simply join your new color with a slip stitch in that corner. (The corner shown in the picture below.)

Granny Square Tutorial Round Three

If you are going to use the same color in the next round, slip stitch to the nearest corner, which will be your top right corner. If this is as large as you want the square or if you are going to switch colors, then fasten off from this color and join your new color with a slip stitch in that top right corner.

Click here to take you to Notes on Further Rounds.

side note round three

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Notes on Further Rounds for Granny Square Blanket

further rounds of square

* The beginning of each round always begins the same: (Chain 2, 2 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 1) in the corner you choose to begin the next round. This is done the same as the rest of the corners if you can remember that the first chain-2 counts as the first of those three double crochets and that’s why you’re only putting 2 double crochets in there after the first chain-2.

* Each following corners will be worked the same: (3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 1)

* In each chain-1 space from the previous round you will add: (3 double crochet, chain 1)

* The chain-1 after each corner and the chain-1 after each 3 double crochet you work along the sides add an extra chain-1 space for you to put another (3 double crochet, chain 1) in the next round. That’s how your square/blanket gets evenly larger.

At the end of each round, you will join with a slip stitch, and if you are using the same color you will slip stitch up to the corner. If you are changing yarn colors then you will fasten off after you join with a slip stitch and join the new yarn with a slip stitch in the same corner you would have slip stitched to. (Though I’m pretty sure you can join the yarn in any corner and it’ll work out the same, so if you set it down, walk off, and then forget which was your ending corner, that’s okay.)

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Poodle Crochet Pattern

Poodle

Poodle Crochet Pattern

I use a size K (6.50 MM) hook for everything except the eyes and nose. For those I use an F (3.75 MM) hook.

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Body:

*First chain does not count as a stitch unless otherwise stated.

With body color:

Rnd 1: With color A, Ch 3, dc 8 in 3rd chain from hook, jn in first dc with sl st. (8 dc.)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (16 dc.)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc.)

Rnd 4-8: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in first dc. Fasten off the body color. (24 dc.)

Rnd 9: With fur color, jn with a sl st where you fastened off in round 8. Ch 2, 5dc cluster in same st, dec, (5dc cluster, dec) around. Jn with sl st.

Rnd 10-12: Ch 2, dc in same st, 5dc cluster in next st, (dc, 5dc cluster) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc.
Rnd 11: Ch 2, 5dc cluster in same st, dc in next st, (5dc cluster, dc) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off fur color.

Rnd 12: Jn body color with a sl st where you joined Rnd 11. Working in back (inside) loops only, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew neck to head.

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Head:

*Beginning chains do not count as a stitch unless otherwise stated.
With body color:
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (6 sc.)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st and around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (6 sc.)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, work 2 sc in same st as ch-1. 2 sc in each of the stitches around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (12 sc total.)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, Dc in same st and around. . Jn with a sl st in the first dc. (12 dc total.)
Rnd 5:  Ch 2. Dc in same st, (2 dc, dc) around to the end. Jn with a sl st in first dc.  (18 dc.)
Rnd 6:  Ch 2. Dc in same st and next st, 2 dc in next st, (dc, dc, 2dc) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (24 dc.)
Rnd 7: Ch 2. Dc in same st and next 2 st, 2dc. (Dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (30 dc.)
Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (30 dc.)
Rnd 9:   Ch 2, dc in same st and next st, (decrease, dc, dc) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc.  (23 dc.)
Rnd 10: Ch 2, dc in same st, decrease, (dc, dec) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (16 dc.)
Rnd 11: Ch 2, double crochet decrease around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Stuff the head and sl st to close. I usually sew on eyes and nose before closing the head so it’s easier to weave the ends inside the head.

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Cute eyes:

Use F (3.75 MM) hook for the eyes.
(Make two.)
Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: With white and working in back loops only, join with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in back loop of next st, (2 sc in the back loop of next st, 1 sc in back loop of next st) around. Join with a sl st in 1st sc. Don’t fasten off. (18 sc) For pupil, you will now chain 4 and sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 ch. Sl st in front loop of next st. Fasten off with tail long enought to sew pupil to eye and the eye to head. Fold strip down into the black of the eye and sew it into place.

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Nose:

Use an F (3.75 MM) hook and black yarn for the nose.
Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, sc in last ch. Ch 1, sl st in same ch as last sc. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to stitch nose to head.

IMG_3274

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Head Puff (Top knot):

*There are 2 pieces that you’ll sew together.

Bottom Piece:

Rnd 1: Ch 3, 3dc cluster in 3rd ch from hook, 2 dc, (3dc cluster, 2 dc) three times. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2dc in same st, 5dc cluster, 5dc cluster, (dc three times in the next st, 5dc cluster, 5dc cluster) around. Jn with a sl st.

Rnd 3: Working in back (bottom of top knot) loops only, ch 1, sl st in same st. (ch 1, sl st in next st) around. Jn with a sl st in first ch. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew puff to the top of the head.

Top Piece:

You’ll sew this one to the center/top of the bottom round to make it a little taller.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, 5dc cluster in 3rd ch from hook, 2dc, (5dc cluster, 2dc) three times. Jn with asl st. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew this puff to the bottom puff.

Rnd 2: Working in back (bottom of top knot) loops only, ch 1, sl st in same st. (ch 1, sl st in next st) around. Jn with a sl st in first ch. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew puff to the top of the head.

 IMG_3273

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Arms:

(Make Two)

Rnd 1: With body color, Ch 3, 8 dc in 1st chain. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not counting 1st chains.) Fasten off body color and jn fur color in same spot.

Rnd 2: Ch 2. With fur color and working in back loops only, (dc, 5dc cluster) in same stitch and in each st around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc/8 puffs not counting 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, 5dc cluster in same st, dc in next st, (5dc cluster, dc) around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc/8 puffs not counting 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, beginning in same st as ch-2, dc dec around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc decrease stitches not counting first ch-2.) Fasten off fur color and stuff paw.

Rnd 5: Jn body color with sl st in same st as fastened off in Rnd 4. Ch 2. Working in back loops only, dc in next st and in each st around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not counting 1st ch-2.)
Rnds 6-10: You can stuff as you go along if it’s easier for you, but I never have any trouble stuffing it at the end. Ch 2, dc in same st and each st around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. After round 10, fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew arm to body. I like to pinch the top of the arm together and then sew it on so that it will be floppy. If you sew the limbs on in a circular fashion they will be stiff. Do whichever you prefer!

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Legs:

(Make two.)

Rnd 1: With body color, Ch 3, 8 dc in 1st chain. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not counting 1st chains.) Fasten off body color and jn fur color with a sl st in the same spot.
Rnd 2: With fur color and workin in back loops this round, Ch 2, (dc, 5dc cluster) in same st as jn. (dc, 5dc cluster) in each st around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc/8 puffs not counting 1st ch-2.)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, (dc, 5dc cluster) in same st. *Dc in next st, (dc, 5dc cluster) in next st. Repeat from * around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc.
Rnd 4: Ch 2, 5 dc cluster in same st, dc in next st. (5dc cluster in next st, dc in next st) around. Jn with sl st.
Rnd 5: Ch 2, 5dc cluster in same st, dec, (5dc cluster, dec) around. Jn with sl st.
Rnd 6: Ch 2, dec around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not including 1st ch-2) Fasten off fur color and jn body color with a sl st in same spot.
Rnd 7: With body color and working in back loops only this round, ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not including 1st ch-2.)
Rnd 8-11: Ch 2, dc around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not including 1st ch 2.) After last round, fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew leg to body.

IMG_3286

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Tail:

Rnd 1:With body color: Ch 8, jn with a sl st in first chain to form a ring. Ch 2, dc in each ch around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (8 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (8 dc)
Rnd 3-4: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off body color after Rnd 4 leaving a tail long enough to sew tail to body. Tail, tail, tail. *snort*.
Rnd 5: Flip the tail so that you are working in original chain side. Jn fur color with sl st in any ch. Ch 2, 5dc cluster in same st, dc, (5dc cluster, dc) around. Jn with a sl st.
Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in same st, 5dc cluster in next st, (dc, 5dc cluster) around. Jn with sl st in first dc.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc decrease around. Sl st to close. Fasten off, stuff and weave in ends.

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Poodle Ears (make two):

Rnd 1: With body color: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 chains, (sc, dc, sc, sc, dc, sc) in the last chain pivoting the chain as you go along so that you can work back up the chain. Sc back up in the next 5 ch, (sc, dc, sc, sc, dc) in the last (or very first, rather) chain. Jn with a sl st in the very first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st and next 7 st, (dc, sc) in next st. (This should be the stitch right after the dc from Rnd 1.) Sc, (sc, dc), sc in next 8 st, (dc, sc) in next st, sc, (sc, dc) in next st, jn with a sl st in first sc to close round. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew ear to head.

For the bottom, ‘fluffy’ part of the ear, attach fur color with a sl st to the corner of one side of the bottom of the ear. This round will the right side, or the row that should face up when you’re finished. On the other rows remember to push your bobbles backwards (in-side-out) so that they’ll face up. You’ll be working in those bottom 5 stitches.

Row 1: Ch 2, 5dc cluster in same st as join, (sc, 5dc cluster) twice.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, 5dc cluster, (sc, 5dc cluster) twice.

Row 3: Ch 2, 5dc cluster in same st, (sc, 5dc cluster) twice.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, (sc, dc, sc) in same st. *Sc in next st, (sc, dc, sc) in next st. Repeat from * one more time. Ch 1, sl st in last st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

IMG_3275

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Bow:

Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Ch 1, sl st in last ch, pivot, ch 1, sc in same st and back up chain. Ch 1, turn, sc in same st and across so that you now have 3 single crochet rows. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to weave into bow and wrap around the center before you sew it onto the head.

Sew everything together and weave in all the loose ends! Now you have a poodle pal!

Poodle 2

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 Pattern by: Starling of Craftyghoul

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Waiting for Spring Hat and Shoulder Wrap Set

IMG_3259

 

* To change colors, fasten off with previous color and join with a sl st in the same space that you previously fastened off.

* I usually weave in the ends as I go along so that I’m not overwhelmed at the end of the project.
Hat:

Square Strip:

The squares are simple granny squares.

* Use F (3.75MM ) hook and Red Heart Super Savor Yarn.

Ch 6, join with a sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, (counts as first dc), 2 dc in circle, ch 3, (3dc, ch 3) three times, and then join with a sl st in first dc.
(12 dc and 4 ch-3 corner spaces)

Rnd 2: If using the same color, sl st to the nearest ch-3 space. If using different color, join with a sl st in any ch-3 space. Ch 2, (2dc, ch 3, 3dc), ch 1. (3dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in each of the ch-3 spaces around. Jn with a sl st in first dc.
(24 dc, 4 ch-1 spaces, 4 ch-3 spaces)

Rnd 3: If using the same color, sl st to the nearest ch-3 space. If using different color, join with a sl st in any ch-3 space. Ch 2, (counts as first dc), (2dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in corner. (3dc, ch 1) in ch-1 space. *(3dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in next corner, (3dc, ch 1) in next ch-1 space. Repeat from * two more times and jn with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off leaving a little bit of a tail to sew one side of this square to the side of another square.

*Make squares, sewing them together side-by-side, until there are enough to fit comfortably around your head, (I make 7 squares), then sew the ends of the last two squares together. I personally like to have a little bit of a rough look when sewing mine together, so I hold the wrong sides together and weave the yarn in and out of the inside/back/bottom loops only. Like…the loops that are closest together when holding the wrong sides together.

sewingtogetheratbackloops

Outlining the squares:

*Use a size K hook.

First Round: Work in the back loops of all the stitches possible and inside the actual chain if you’re working in the chain space. Jn desired color with a sl st into any right side corner of one of the squares.

For a little wider, more spacious fit: Ch 2, *(dc in each of the next 3 st, dc in ch-1 space) twice. Dc in next 3 st, dc decrease using the last corner of the square and the first corner of the next square. Repeat from * around the strip. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off.

OR

For a more snug fit, and my preferred fit: Ch 2, *(dc in each of the next 3 st, skip ch-1 space,) twice, dc in next 3 st, dc decrease using the last corner of the square and the first corner of the next square. Repeat from * around.

*The first side you work in this way will be the side you attach to the upper half of the hat once you make it. To make the bottom (open) end of the hat, you’ll flip the strip over and repeat. The fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew this part of the hat to the top (crown) of the hat once you complete it.

Second Round for bottom of hat: For the last round of the brim of the hat you’ll be working in the back (inside) loops all around. Jn with a sl st in the back loop of any st. Ch 2, hdc in next st and around. Jn with a sl st in the first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

*Note: If you feel the hat is a little too wide, simply skip the two ch-1 spaces on each square and don’t work dc into those chains as you would for the ‘snug fit’ option above.
Crown of the hat:

*Use a K hook

*On the round after I switch colors, I like to work in the back loops only of the round with the new color, but this isn’t necessary unless you also like the little ‘line’ that appears as a result as well.

Rnd 1: Ch 4, join to form a ring. Ch 2, (counts as dc here and throughout pattern), 9dc in ring. Jn in first dc to close round here and at the end of each rnd. (10 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (20 dc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, (dc, 2dc) around. Join. (30 dc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, Dc in next st, 2 dc, (dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (40 dc)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (50 dc)

Rnds 6: Ch 2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc, (dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around. Join. (60 dc)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. Jn. Repeat this round until hat his desired length when you add the square strip of the hat)

* Sew the crown of the hat to the strip of squares with a yarn hook by weaving the needle in and out of the back (inside) loops. Fasten off and weave in ends.

*Note: This is the basic way I make all of my hats. If you want a simple dc hat, you can repeat Rnd 7 all the way down until the hat is as long as you want it, even adding many extra rounds for a slouchy beanie. For a kid’s hat, work from Rnd 1 and stop when you get the hat just wide enough that you could skip down to Rnd 7 and repeat it until the hat is as long as you want it. For a kid’s version of this particular hat, you could even make only one or two rounds of the squares so they are smaller (or switch to an F hook for the squares only so you can keep the number of rounds and color combinations) and see how that works to tiny it up!

 

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Cowl or Shoulder Wrap

Squares:
Make squares like the ones for the hat, only use a K hook because they can be larger. Make the squares and connect them until they are as wide as you want your cowl (or shoulder wrap) to be.

Then Jn desired color yarn with a sl st and dc around in the same manner as I mentioned for the border on the hat:

Stripes:

For a little wider, more spacious fit: Ch 2, *(dc in each of the next 3 st, dc in ch-1 space) twice. Dc in next 3 st, dc decrease using the last corner of the square and the first corner of the next square. Repeat from * around the strip. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off.

For a more snug fit, and my preferred fit: Ch 2, *(dc in each of the next 3 st, skip ch-1 space,) twice, dc in next 3 st, dc decrease using the last corner of the square and the first corner of the next square. Repeat from * around.

Then simply repeat double crocheting around evenly on each side of the square patch until cowl is as tall as you’d like. Example: Jn with sl st, ch 2, dc in next st and around, jn with a sl st in first dc to join round.

 

Now take adorable pictures with your kitty cat!!!

Now take adorable pictures with your kitty cat!!!

 

 

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Waiting for Spring Plant Hanger

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Waiting for Spring Plant Hanger

Do your plants need some style? Do they want to strut their sexy, luscious leaves and flex their stems at the outdoor plants on the other side of the window? I would if I was a plant!

I use a size K (6.50MM) hook, Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, and a yarn needle to sew the project together and help me weave in the ends.

* To change colors, fasten off with previous color and join with a sl st in the same space that you previously fastened off.

* I usually weave in the ends as I go along so that I’m not overwhelmed at the end of the project.

*Make sure the yarn you use is strong enough to hold the plant securely when you add dirt to the plant. I wouldn’t try to hang anything really heavy with a yarn hangerJust little house plants.

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Squares:

The squares are simple granny squares. You’ll want to start with the first round or two and then keep working outwards in the same pattern until the square is as tall as you want your plant hanger. Then make as many squares as needed to circle your plant pot when you sew them together.

Rnd 1: Ch 6, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring. Ch 2, (counts as first dc), 2 dc in circle, ch 3, (3dc, ch 3) three times, and then join with a sl st in first dc.
(12 dc and 4 ch-3 corner spaces)

Rnd 2: If using the same color, sl st to the nearest ch-3 space. If using different color, join with a sl st in any ch-3 space. Ch 2, (2dc, ch 3, 3dc), ch 1. (3dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in each of the ch-3 spaces around. Jn with a sl st in first dc.
(24 dc, 4 ch-1 spaces, 4 ch-3 spaces)

Rnd 3: If using the same color, sl st to the nearest ch-3 space. If using different color, join with a sl st in any ch-3 space. Ch 2, (counts as first dc), (2dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in corner. (3dc, ch 1) in ch-1 space. *(3dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in next corner, (3dc, ch 1) in next ch-1 space. Repeat from * two more times and jn with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off leaving a little bit of a tail to sew one side of this square to the side of another square.
* You can stack your squares to make the hanger taller if you desire, or you could keep working outward in rounds. If you choose to keep adding rounds, just add (3dc, ch-1) in each of the side spaces and (3dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1) in each corner like you have been doing. You could make a blanket that way if you wanted to! I have before!

* If your squares are just too short to reach, but you can’t fit another square in there, you could just add one or two dc or sc rows evenly along a few of the squares to make it fit perfect.
Sew your squares together.

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Border:

If you would like a border on the top and bottom of your squares, what I do is:

Jn yarn with a sl st in the st right before one of the square’s left corners. *Double crochet decrease using the two touching corners of the squares. Then hdc in next three stitches, skip the ch-1 space, hdc in the next three stitches (for as many or few of these center stitches as you’ve created depending on how small or large your square is) and then double crochet decrease in the next touching corners. Repeat from * around and jn with a sl st in beginning stitch. Repeat for other side.

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For the bottom circle:

I’m going to show you a pattern I LOVE for creating circles. I don’t know if it works forever outwards, as in if you wanted to make a circle blanket because I haven’t tried making a circle that large before, but I have used this pattern for many, many smaller circular projects:

Rnd 1: Ch 4, jn with a sl st in first ch to form a ring. Ch 2, (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 9 dc in ring. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (10 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Jn. (20 dc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, (dc, 2dc) around. Jn. (30 dc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in same st, (dc, dc, 2dc) around. Jn. (40 dc)

You continue this pattern, stopping when the circle is as large as you want. You increase the number of dc before your 2dc by one with each round. So you begin each round the same: Ch 2, dc in same st. You end the rounds the same by joining with a sl st. The pattern will go like this starting with round 5:
Rnd 5: (dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around.

Rnd 6: (Dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around.

Rnd 7: (Dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around.

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Sew the bottom to the bottom in place.

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Handles:

(Make 4)

Rw 1: Ch 51, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each chain across, ch 1, sl st in the same space as your very last sc.

Rw 2: Ch 2, pivot. Dc in same st. (Ch 2, sk next 2 st, dc in next st) across. (Add a dc in any extra stitches at the end if you miscounted at some point. Then you won’t have to start all over! *wink* Well…plus my math might be off here.)

Rw 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st. (2sc in ch-2 space, sc in dc) across. To make the end more strong and make it easier to have stitches to sew the handle to the pot base: Sc a second time inthe last stich, shift work, sc in center, 2sc in other corner. Jn with a sl st in very first sc. Fasten off at end leaving a tail long enough to set handle to plant pot firmly and securely.
Sew the handles to the sides of the plant hanger and then either stitch the tops of them together very securely, or loop them all onto whatever you’re hanging the pot from.

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You might need to get your kitty to help you construct your project like Mizzy the Kitty helps me all the time.

You might need to get your kitty to help you construct your project like Mizzy the Kitty helps me all the time.

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