Fabrege Egg: Swamp Thing style!

I’ve been playing around with making fabrege eggs with normal, store-bought chicken eggs. There’s no point hunting down goose eggs or even more illusive eggs if I can’t perfect plenty of easy to get a hold of eggs, ya know!

I did a quick search for “how to blow out eggs” and found a helpful little wiki…thingy, which you can read here if you’re interested in giving it a try. They list plenty of options that don’t involve putting your mouth on the egg, but I found it easiest to scramble the contents in the egg with the needles I used to puncture them and them blow on ’em until I faint or they explode. Okay…none of them exploded, but that would be an interesting superpower.

The hubby loves Swamp Thing, and I do too! So I dragged out the paintbrushes and detailed my swampy heart out! I still haven’t sprayed it with the clear coat to make it look shiny and keep it protected yet, but here are the results! Enjoy!

IMG_2488 IMG_2491 IMG_2493 IMG_2494 IMG_2495

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Fox Doll Crochet Pattern

Fox Doll Crochet Pattern

Fox Doll Pic

I use a size K (6.50 MM) hook for everything accept the eyes and nose. For those I use an F (3.75 MM) hook. I use Red Heart yarn when I make this fox doll.

Body:

Rnd 1: With color A, Ch 3, dc 8 in 3rd chain from hook, jn in first dc with sl st. (8 dc not including first ch-3)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (16 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 4-5: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in same st and in next 7 st. Do not fasten off, with color B, dc in the next 8 st, do not fasten off. With a seperate end of the yarn of  color A, dc in the last 8 st. Jn wih a sl st. ( 24 dc not icluding first ch-2.)

Rnd 7-8: Ch 2, turn and work in opposite direction now. Dc in same st and in next 7 st, do not fasten off, but pick up color B where you left it and with color dc in next 8 st, do not fasten off, but pick up the very first strand of color A where you left it, and use that to dc in the last 8 st. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 9: Ch 2, turn and work in opposite direction. Dc in same st, dec, dc, dec, dc, dec, dc, switch to color B, dec, dc, dec, switch to color A, dc, dec, dc, dec, dc, dec. Jn with sl st in first dc.

Rnd 10: You can now fasten off the other rows as you go and use the color A strand you have at the end of this row to finish off the body. Ch 2, turn and work in the opposite direction so that the right side is facing you. Dc in same st and in the next 6 st, (fasten off and change to color B) dc in the next 3 st, (fasten off and change to color A for the last time), dc in the last 7 st. Jn with a sl st in first dc.

Rnd 11-12: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. Jn with a sl st in first dc.  (17 dc including first ch-2.) Fasten off.

Head:

Rnd 1: With white, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (6 sc.)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st and next 4 st. Switch to orange and sc in last st. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (6 sc.)

Rnd 3: Still using orange, Ch 1, turn work and put 2 sc in same st as ch-1. Switch to white and work 2 sc in each of the stitches left around. Jn with a sl st in first sc. (12 sc total.)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same st and in next 9 st. Switch to orange and dc in the last 2 st. Jn with a sl st in the first dc. (The orange should be lining up to form the top of the nose.) (12 dc total.)

Rnd 5:  Still using orange, Ch 2 and turn work. Dc in same st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st. Switch to white. (2 dc, dc) around to the end. Jn with a sl st in first dc.  (18 dc total not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 6:  Still using white, ch 2 and turn. Dc in same st and next st, 2 dc in next st, (dc, dc, 2dc) 3 times. Dc in the next 2 st, then switch to orange and work 2 dc in the next st, dc, dc, 2dc. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (24 dc total not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same st and next 2 st, 2dc, dc, dc, dc. Switch to white. 2dc in next st, (dc, dc, dc, 2dc) around to end. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (30 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 8: Fasten off with the white and jn orance with a sl st in any st. Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (30 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 9:   Ch 2, dc in same st and next st, (decrease, dc, dc) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc.  (23 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 10: Ch 2, dc in same st, decrease, (dc, dec) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (16 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 11: Ch 2, double crochet decrease around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Stuff the head and sl st to close. I usually sew on eyes and nose before closing the head so it’s easier to weave the ends inside the head.

Cute eyes:

Use F (3.75 MM) hook for the eyes.

(Make two.)

Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: With white and working in back loops only, join with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in back loop of next st, (2 sc in the back loop of next st, 1 sc in back loop of next st) around. Join with a sl st in 1st sc. (18 sc) For pupil, you will now chain 4 and sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 ch. Sl st in front loop of next st. Fasten off with tail long enought to sew pupil to eye and the eye to head. Fold strip down into the black of the eye and sew it into place.

Nose:

Use an F (3.75 MM) hook for the nose.

Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, sc in last ch. Ch 1, sl st in same ch as last sc. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to stitch nose to head.

Arms:

(Make two.)

Rnd 1: With black, ch 3, 8 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (8 dc.)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc, 2dc, dc, dc, 2dc, dc, 2dc. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (12 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 3-6:  Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (12 dc not including first ch-2.) Fasten off.

Rnd 7- 9: With orange, Jn with a sl st in any of the stitches of Rnd 6 and then begin to repeat Rnd 3  times.

Legs:

(Make two.)

Rnd 1: Ch 3, 8 dc in 1st chain. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not counting 1st chains.)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st and in each st around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (16 dc not counting 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st, (dc, 2dc) around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (24 dc not including 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (24 dc including 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in same st, dec in next st, (dc, dec) around. (16 dc not including 1st dc and counting each dec as one dc.)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, dec around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not including 1st ch-2)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not including 1st ch-2.) Fasten off from black yarn and join orange yarn with a sl st in the same st as your last join on this rnd.

Rnd 8-11: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not including 1st ch 2.)

Tail:

Rnd 1: With white, ch 3, 4 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in first st. (4 dc.)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2dc in same st and in each st around. Jn with a sl st in first st. (8 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2. (You should have 16 dc at the end of the rnd now.)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2dc in next st, (dc, 2dc) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in same st, decrease once, (dc, descrease) around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (16 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 7: With black, ch 2, dc in same st, decrease once, (dc, decrease) around, dc in each of the last 2 st.  Jn with a sl st in first dc. (12 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 8-10: With orange, ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (12 dc in each row not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 11: Ch 2, double crochet decrease around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (6 dc not including the first ch-2.) Stuff tail.

Rnd 12: Ch 2, double crochet decrease around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (3 dc not including the first ch-2.) Finish stuffing and sew tail closed.

Stuff arms and legs and close them the same as the tail. Sew the arms, legs, tail, and head to body.

Fox Doll Full Side

Ears:

(Make two.)

Back of ear:

Row 1: With orange, ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc, sc, sl st in the last ch. Turn. (4 st.)

Row 2: Sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in the last st. Turn. (5 sc.)

Row 3: Sc in  1st 4 st, 2 sc in the last st. Turn. (6 sc.)

Row 4: Sc in 1st 5 st, 2 sc in the last st. Turn. (7 sc.)

Row 5: Sc in 1st 6 st, 2 sc in the last st. Turn. (8 sc.)

Row 6: Sc in 1st 7 st, 2 sc in the last st. Turn. (9 sc.)

Row 7: Sc in 1st 8 st, 2 sc in the last st. Turn. (10 sc.) Fasten off and weave in ends.

Front of ear:

Row 1: Using white, ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. (6 sc.)

Row 2: Decrease, sc in the next 2 st, decrease. Turn. ( 4 sc.)

Row 3: Sc across. Turn. (4 sc.)

Row 4: Decrease twice. Turn. (2 sc.)

Row 5: Sc across. (2 sc.) Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew front of ear to back using black yarn.

Bottom of ear:

Work in continous rounds without joining.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (4 sc.)

Rnd 2: (2sc, sc) twice. (6 sc.)

Rnd 3: (2sc, sc, sc) twice. (8 sc.)

Rnd 4:  (sc, dc) in 1st st, dc in next st, sc in next 2 st, (sc, dc) in next st, dc in next st, (sc, sl st) in next st. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew ear to head.

Attach bottom of ear to the top front/back of ear while stuffing the ear. Sew ears to head.

Fox Doll Side Above

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Goth Zombie Bunny Pattern

Goth Bunny Pattern

Finished Both Bunny 2

I use a size K (6.50 MM) hook unless otherwise specified and Red Heart Super Saver medium yarn.

* I have added the pattern for both the straight arms and the arms with ball ends so   that you can choose which one you prefer!

* I have also included the pattern for both the large anime-type eye and the ‘X’ eye.  I like to make one of each, but feel free to use whatever combination you like!

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Pattern:

Body:

Rnd 1: With color A, Ch 3, dc 8 in 3rd chain from hook, jn in first dc with sl st. (8 dc not including first ch-3)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (16 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 4-8: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 9: Ch 2, dc in same st, dec, (dc, dec) around. Jn with sl st in first dc.

Rnd 10-12: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (17 dc in each rnd.) Fasten off after round 12.

Head:

Rnd 1: With color A, Ch 3, dc 8 in 3rd chain from hook, jn in first dc with sl st. (8 dc not including first ch-3)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (16 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in same st and next st, 2 dc in next st, (dc, dc, 2dc), around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (32 dc not including first ch-2)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. Jn with sl st in top of first dc. (32 dc including first ch-2)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in same st and next st, dc dec. (dc, dc,  dec) around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2 and counting the decreases as one st)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in same st, dec in next st, (dc, dec) around. (16 dc not including first ch-2 and counting the decreases as one st.)

Rnd 8: Ch 2, dec around beginning with the same st as first ch-2. As in, you’ll be putting the first half of the first dec in the same st as the first ch-2. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (8 dc not including first ch-2 and counting the dc decreases as one dc.)

Stuff head and close the sphere by single crochet-decreasing around and then slip stitching across the small opening a few times. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew head to body. I usually sew on eyes and nose before closing the head so it’s easier to weave the ends inside the head, but do whatever you’re most comfortable with to find the right placement.

Cute eyes:

Use F (3.75 MM) hook.

Rnd 1: With black, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: With white and working in back loops only, join with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join, sc in back loop of next st, (2 sc in the back loop of next st, 1 sc in back loop of next st) around. Join with a sl st in 1st sc. (18 sc) For pupil, you will now chain 4 and sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 ch. Sl st in front loop of next st. Fasten off with tail long enought to sew pupil to eye and the eye to head. Fold strip down into the black of the eye and sew it into place.

‘X’ eye:

Use F (3.75 MM) hook.

Rnd 1: With white, Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Do not join. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.  Jn with sl st in first sc. Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew eye to head. (12 sc)

When you attach eye to head, use desired color yarn to add an X shape over top of the white circle.

IMG_1850

Triangle Nose:

Feel free to leave the nose off or to create one of your own by stitching around when you add the mouth later, but if you’d like a good ol’ triangle bunny nose, here’s the pattern I use.

With F (3.75MM) hook:

Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, sc in last ch. Ch 1, sl st in same ch as last sc. Fasten off leaving tail long enough to stitch nose to head.

Bunny Ears (make two):

(Back to the K hook)

The ears are made by making one long chain, then working up the chain and back down the opposite side:

Ear: Ch 25. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, dc in next chain and the rest of the chains stopping before the very last chain. In the last chain, (dc, ch 2, sl st), and then pivot the ear so that you’ll be working back in the opposite direction along the ear. Now chain 2, and dc in the same chain as you just worked the sl st in. Now dc in the next ch and in each chain back down the ear until you reach the last 2 chains, (the ones where you made the first sl st and sc), and you will mirror those by adding a sc in the next ch and a sl st in the very last chain. Now to create a little more of a point at the end of the ear, ch 2 and join with a sl st in the very first sl st you made to start the ear. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If you’d like now, you can use the ear to trace a shape in your desired fabric to use for the inside center of the ear. Trace the ear and then sew a 1/4″ seam along the fabric ear. Sew fabric to inside of ear. I use a sewing machine to stitch the seam along the fabric, and then I hand stitch the fabric to the crochet-ear. You don’t have to make it perfect. The charm of a zombie-type doll is how patchy, messy, and fun it’s allowed to be!

*Note: If you don’t have a sewing machine and you’re wanting to save time, just trace the ear on the fabric and then cut it about 1/4″ smaller, just the inside of the line you traced, then stitch the ear directly to the bunny. Like I said, it’s okay if Bunny looks a little jagged or frayed. It’ll add to the charm.

Goth Bunny Ears

Legs with ball ends (Make two):

Rnd 1: Ch 3, 8 dc in 1st chain. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not counting 1st chains.)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st and in each st around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (16 dc not counting 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st, (dc, 2dc) around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (24 dc not including 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in next st and around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (24 dc including 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in same st, dec in next st, (dc,  dec) around. (16 dc not including 1st dc and counting each dec as one dc.)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, dec around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not including 1st ch-2)

Rnd 7-11: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not including 1st ch 2.) Fasten off after round 11 leaving tail long enough to sew legs to body.

Straight Arms without ball ends:

(Make two.)

Rnd 1: With black, ch 3, 8 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (8 dc.)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc, 2dc, (dc, dc, 2dc) twice. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (12 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 3-9:  Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (12 dc not including first ch-2.) Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew arms to body.

Arms with Ball Ends:

(Make Two)

Rnd 1: Ch 3, 8 dc in 1st chain. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not counting 1st chains.)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st and in each st around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (16 dc not counting 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st and in each st around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (16 dc not counting 1st ch-2.)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, beginning in same st as first ch-2, dc dec around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not counting first ch-2.)

Rnd 5-10: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in each st around. Jn with sl st in 1st dc. (8 dc not counting 1st ch-2.) Fasten off leaving tail long enough to sew arm to body.

Finishing:

Stuff and close head and sew eyes, nose and stitch mouth onto head in whichever order you are most comfortable with. Weave in the loose ends as you go.

*Note: When attaching the arms and legs, I like to pinch the open ends closed and sew them that way and THEN attach them to the body so that the limbs are more floppy. If you’d like a more stiff look then you can stuff the limbs to the very tip-top and stitch them to the body in a circle rather than in a straight line like you’ll do in they’re pinched closed.

Attaching limbs

Sew head, arms, and legs to body, stuffing the body, arms, and legs as you go.

Make and attach Tail and Tummy pieces, as described below.

Tail:

Wrap yarn around two fingers about 20 times, then thread the end of the yarn through the opposite side of the spirals so that you’ll be able to tie the beginning and the end of the yarn together over the top of all the loops to secure them.  Make the tail end of your yarn long enough to sew the tail to the body.

Bunny Tail

Sew on Bunny Tail

Tummy:

Cut a 3″ by 3″ square from the desired fabric. Fold in half and cut a half-circle shape taking up as much of the fabric square as you can. Stitch the circle in place on the bunny’s stomach.

Cut out TummySew on Tummy

Now just tuck in any loose ends, tighten anything needing tightened, and stuff the stuffing back in where sewing things together might have pulled some of it to the surface so that it looks nice and tidy! Commence cuddling! Or…um…talking the neighbor kid into wearing a white gown and standing at their window holding Bunny with a blank expression and too-much bluish make-up around her eyes to make them look sunken…and then when your best friend comes over, point at the neighbor’s house and scream. Or, you know…whatever else you and Goth Bunny can think of to do to pass the time. Just be safe! 🙂

Finished Goth Bunny 1

Finished Bunny Tail

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Seagull using the Free Circle Bird Decoration Pattern

I’ve been really busy lately! Maybe a little too busy for comfort. My mind is scattered and yet commanding that I forget about sleep and get lots of things accomplished! Like…random things…that I had no interest or forewarning the day before that there was a plan in my brain to do at all. Hopefully, though, my readers can get some fun out of this as I share my projects (that-came-out-of-nowhere-and-ate-at-my-brain-until-I-agreed-to-do-them) with you!! 🙂

First, let’s start out with this seagull I made for my dad, (Navy veteran.)

I used the Free Circle Bird Decoration Pattern I put together, which you can find here, and I used only white for the body, black for the tail-tuft, and then grey for the wings! Turned out really nice! I might have to make a few of these for my sea/beach-themed bathroom! (Pictures below. Um…of the seagull I crocheted, not pictures of my bathroom. *snort*)

Have any of you tried out the Circle Bird Decoration Pattern yet? When you do, share pictures on the Craftghoul Facebook page so we can all enjoy the inspiration! Find me on Facebook here: Facebook.com/craftyghoulcrochet

Oh, and did I mention I’m on Twitter? With Facebook I try to mostly stay on crochet topic, but I do tend to add a random picture, link, or comment about other things I’m excited about from time to time. You already know that I share everything on my blog, and I guess with Twitter it’s the same as the blog, only more in-the-moment as things are happening, and ALL KINDS of random thoughts going through my mind as well. So if you’re wanting to stalk…er…keep up with me 24/7, follow me on Twitter here: https://twitter.com/CraftyGhoul

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Tiny Victorian Top Hat Pattern

Tiny Victorian Top Hat Pattern

I use either Red Heart Super Savor Yarn or Caron Simply Soft Yarn and a size K (6.50 MM) hook. I’m going to put the pattern all together without the pictures first so that the really experienced crocheter can buzz through without having to scroll very much. If you want more clarification for some of the rounds, I’ll put a note that there’s a picture to go with it.

* Ch-2 at the beginning of each round does NOT count as a double crochet.

Rnd 1: Ch 4 and join in the 1st chain to form a ring. Ch 2, 10 dc in ring. Join with a sl st in the first dc. (10 dc) (Image One)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in sam st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st in first dc. (20 dc) (Image One)

Rnd 3: *Now we’re making the sides of the hat, so for this row you will work in the back (bottom) loops only to cause this row to more easily make a sharp angle rather than a rounded edge.

Ch 2, dc in the back loop of the same st, then dc in the back loop of each st around. Join with a sl st in the first dc. (20 dc) (Image Two and Three)

Rnd 4: Working in the whole stitch as normal, Ch 1, sc in the same st and each st around. Join with a sl st in the first sc. (20 sc)

*I often times use a different color for round 5 as a band around the hat. If you are too, then fasten off after round 4 and join the next color with a sl st in the same spot. Then after round 5 do the same thing to switch back to your original color.

Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in each st around. Join with a sl st in first dc. (20 dc)

Rnd 6: *Now we’re going to want the brim of the hat to have a sharp angle outward, so for Round 6 we will be working in the front (outside) loops only.

Ch 2, dc in the front loop of the same st, (dc in the front loop of the next st, 2dc in the front loop of the next st) around and then work 2dc extra in at the very end. Join with a sl st in the first dc. (33 dc not including first ch-2) (Image Four)

Rnd 7: (Border round, so change colors again if you wanted to.) Ch 1, sl st in the back (bottom) loop. (Ch 1, sl st in the back (bottom) loop of the next st) around. Join with a sl st in the same spot you started the brim. Fasten off and weave in all the ends. (Image Five)

Bottom of the Hat:

Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 and then fasten off after round 2 leaving a tail long enough to sew the circle to the bottom of the hat. (Image One)

Finishing:

Stuff the hat with cotton, or if you prefer it to be more stiff, I find that the flower arranging section at the store usually has all kinds of stiff, cylindrical shapes that you could saw down to size with a steak knife, haha! So just be creative! I find stuffing works just fine for me, though, and at the very end, I thread a bit of yarn from the bottom of the hat, up out the top of the hat, and then loop it back to the bottom and tie it so that it pulls the top of the hat into a better, more firm shape. Then I can stuff it more without worrying about it bowing up on top. (Image Six and Seven)

Then add flowers or a strip of fabric…whatever you can think of!

I like to slide the hat onto a no-slide headband so I don’t have to pin it in place in my hair. When I do that I don’t center the hat, but push it to the front a little so it’s sits forward on my head without having to push the headband up further. (Image Eight)

Now you have a lovely, finished Tiny Victorian Hat! (Image Nine and Ten)

Image One:

top and bottom of hat

Image Two:

front and back loops

Image Three:

round 3 back loops

Image Four:

End of round 6

Image Five:

border

Image Six:

sew on the bottom of hat

Image Seven:

Thread up through hat

Image Eight:

add headband

Image Nine:

dang it mizzy

Image Ten:

finished hat

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Paintings: Sloth and Steampunk Gun!

I finally got around to adding the rope to a couple of paintings I did to hang in our living room! I wanted to have a little Victorian-ish look to the display method, so I knew hanging them this way was the way-to-go!

The first is a sloth, because my hubby’s favorite animals are sloths! I found a painting like this online once, and I just kinda mimicked his slothy posture and made one of my own!

The second is a steampunk gun! I was so happy with the gold paint I bought a long time ago! I had to paint everything gold for a short spam of time just to get it out of my system!

 

sloth painting 1

steampunk gun painting

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Finished Hat and Clutch from Free Patterns

I finished the clutch I was working on to match my hat! I made both of these from FREE patterns! The flower on the clutch is actually the very center of a granny square that I found in a free pattern/tutorial here: http://appleblossomdreams.blogspot.com/2012/03/cal-granny-rose-week-2-of-5.html

Find the hat pattern here: http://www.garnstudio.com/lang/us/pattern.php?id=5983&lang=us

Find the Clutch Pattern here: http://www.tangledhappy.com/2011/04/spring-inspired-boutique-bags.html

hat and clutch close up

Here are some other pictures of the hat that I have already shared before:

Hat and Necklace for me

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Kitty Cat Square Pattern

Cat Square Pattern

IMG_2174

I use a size K (6.50MM) hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.

Color A: Cat head and body color

Color B: Background square color

Color C: Color to stitch around the cat’s body.

Note* You might want to scan down through the pattern before you get started so you don’t get confused around the tail forming area. Where the tail is supposed to be, you will change colors to the background color (not the tail color) and work in the back loops to the end of the round and THEN join with the tail color, pivoting the square and working in the opposite direction in the FRONT loops that you just skipped. So don’t panic when I have you change to a background color as if we’re forgetting the tail, haha! Doing it this way will give the tail it’s 3-D effect. And for the little point end of the tail you’ll be chaining a few extra and then working back up that chain in the orignal direction. Then you’ll go back to where you left off with the background color to finish working around the square in the original rounds. Make sense?

Another Note* The head is made separately and then stitched on when the square is complete so that you can make the kitty as perky, sleepy, or curious as you want depending on where you place the head. I guess if you want you could put it up-side-down and have a possessed kitty…but that might frighten the friend you give the blanket to, so I wouldn’t recommend it. *snort* But if anyone does that you should add creepy ‘x’ shaped eyes or eyes that are two obvious different sizes. Just sayin’…

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With Color A: Ch 3, 8 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in first ch. (8 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2dc in same st and each st around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (16 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2dc in next st, (dc, 2dc) around. Jn with sl st in first dc. (24 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in same st and next st, 2dc in next st, (dc, dc, 2dc) 4 times. Fasten off. Switch to color B. Jn with a sl st in top of your last dc to begin where you left off. Working in the back loops only of the last 9 sts,  (dc, dc, 2dc) 3 times. Jn with a sl st if first dc.

Leave the background color yarn where it is for the moment because you will pick up right there when you move on to round 5, but now instead we’re going to pivot the project and work back in the  front loops we just skipped to make the tail of the kitty.

Tail: Jn color A with a sl st in the front loop that was left open in your very last st of Rnd 4 before you joined the rnd. working in this loop and in the extra loops back in the direction of where you first joined the background square color B: ch 1, (sc, dc) in the same loop, dc, dc, 2dc, dc, dc, (dc, ch-2, sl st) in the next st. Ignore the last 2 free loops. Instead create a little tip of tail that isn’t attached to the original circle by chaining 3 and then sc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in the last ch, and then join that with a sl st in the top of the last dc/ch-2 of the main part of the tail. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: Now back to where you left off with the original circle. In this round we’re giong to turn the work into a square. Ch 2, hdc in same st and in the next st, dc, (dc, tr, ch 3, tr, dc) in next st to create corner. *Dc, hdc, hdc, 2hdc, hdc, hdc, dc, (dc, tr, ch 3, tr, dc) in next st making next corner. Repeat from * two more times. Dc, hdc, hdc, 2hdc. Jn with sl st in the first hdc.

Rnd 6: Sl st in the next  st. Ch 2, 2dc in same st. Sk next 2 st, (3dc, ch 3, 3dc) in corner. * (Sk next 2 st, 3dc in the next st) 3 times, sk next 2 st, (3dc, ch 3, 3dc) in corner. Repeat from * two more times. (Sk next 2 st, 3 dc in next st) twice. Sk last 2 st, work one dc in the same st as the very first ch-2/2dc of the round.

Rnd 7 : Sl st to the next space between fans. Ch 2, 3dc in same space. 3dc in each space between fans around, accept in each corner work (3dc, ch 3, 3dc). Jn with a sl st in first dc.

Rnd 8: Ch 2, 3dc in same space. 3dc in each space between fans around, except in each corner work (3dc, ch 3, 3dc). Jn with a sl st in first dc.

Head:

Rnd 1: With color A, ch 3, 8 dc in the 3rd ch from hook. Jn with a sl st in first dc.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2dc in same st and each st around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. Do not fasten off. Continue on to ears.

Ears:

Ch 1, (sc, hdc, ch 1, dc, ch1) in next st, (not the same st as the ch-1, but the next st.) (hdc, sc, ch 1) in the next st, sl st in the next 2 st. Ch 1, (sc, hdc, ch 1, dc, ch 1) in the next st, (hdc, sc, ch 1) in the next st. sl st in the next st. Fasten off and sew head in place on square.

Finishing:

Weave in all the ends and then stitch head to body with Color C. Stitch around the cat’s body and tail with color C as well. Don’t stitch the tail to the square, but stitch around it as a border.

I would also like to note that my inspiration for making this kitty square can be found here: Here Kitty, Kitty – 12″ Square by, Melinda Miller. My square is only about 8″ and since I like instant gratification I usually design my stuff to whip up faster than other more solid designs, which are also beautiful in my opinion! I think mine has a festive native kind of look to the head shape and the spiral outline. I think I achieved a nice blend of elegance, modern art, and primitive all at the same time, which is totally what I was going for,  lolz! I’m very pleased with it!

Kitty square comparisson

Kitty square

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Free Pattern for Thistle-Inspired Square

Free Pattern for Thistle Inspired Square

Okay, I got it in my mind that I needed a thistle square pattern, and everywhere I looked I could find nothing other than some kind of thistle-stitch or something like that, ha! So I sat around tinkering until I finally came up with this one! The first lighter green square I added more chains in round two than I state in the final pattern. (Those chains make up the four sides of the celtic-looking cross shape that makes the center of the thistle.) So throughout the pattern they look more loose than they will be for you, but I realized that the looser version made it easier to explain where to put the stitches so you can actually see what I did.  If I didn’t find a way to extend the green from round two outward into the next two rows then the purple of the flowers kept blending in with one another and not having as much of a solid thistle-shape that I was wanting. So that’s why it’s done the way it is, and behold! Thistle Square!!! It’s a simple concept, but I pretended it wasn’t and took lots of close up pictures to detail it out just in case anyone is confused. Happy thistlin’!

Thistle Square Pattern 

* I use a size K hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.

* Picot: Ch 3, sc in 3rd ch from hook.

Rnd 1) Ch 4. Join to form ring. Ch 2, 12 dc in ring. Join with a sl st in first dc. (12 dc not including first ch-2.)

Rnd 2) Ch 2, 2dc in same st, 2 dc in each of the next 2 st, (ch 7, sl st in the 4th ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in top of same dc, 2dc) in next st. (That makes the dc that you will be using in rounds 3 and 4 so that you don’t have to use the purple. You’ll simply sl st in the bottom circle of this chain in Rnd 3 and use the top circle for Rnd 4.) *2dc in each of next 3 st, (Ch 7, sl st in the 4th ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in top of same 2dc) in next st. Repeat from * 2 more times. Join with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off green.

Round Two

Rnd 3) With purple, join with a sl st in the back of the center chain at the center of any chain-loop from Rnd 2. The purpose here is to try to not show/use the purple on these stitches so that the purple of the thistle will be more defined and solid.  *Ch 2,sk next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, sk next stitches and sl st in the same spot as described before on the loop from Rnd 2. Repeat from * three more times.

Round Three

Rnd 4) Ch 2, sl st in the back of the very top center chain of the double loops from Rnd 2. (If you want to be extra picky about the flow of the square you can fasten off after Rnd 3 and join with a sl st in this spot instead of using this ch-2 join method. I just did that because I hate extra ends to weave in.) *Ch 1, (dc, picot) in the first st after that. (The beginning edge of the petal.) dc, picot, (dc, picot, tr, picot, dc, picot) in center st, dc picot in next st, dc in last st of flower, ch 1, sl st in top of double chain loop from Rnd 2. Repeat from * three more times. Fasten off purple.

Round Four

Rnd 5) Jn green with a sl st around any center top loop from Rnd 2. Ch 1. *Sc in the center space, 2sc in ch-1 space, sc in the back loops of the next two stitches making sure to work behind each picot stitch. (2sc, dc) in the back loop of the center corner stitch, (dc, 2sc) in the back loop of the next two stitch making sure to work behind each picot stitch again, sc in the back loop of the next st, 2sc in next ch-1 space. Repeat from * three more times. Join with a sl st in first sc.

Round Five

Rnd 6) Ch 2, dc in same center st. Dc in next 6 st, (dc, tr, ch-2, tr, dc) in corner, *dc in next 13 st, (dc, tr, ch-2, tr, dc) in corner st. Repeat from * two more times. Dc in last 6 st and join with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Thistle Inspired Square One

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Upcycled T-shirt

Upcycled T-shirt

Upcycled T shirt Image

My hubby just gave me a huge pile of really cool men’s T-shirts that he no longer wears after cleaning out our closet. I have lost a lot of weight over this last year and am not so quick to want to hide in large T-shirts anymore like I used to, but I am totally a T-shirt lover and couldn’t bare to throw the shirts out. I decided that I’d try to find a way to make them more feminine and even sexy, and after a quick search for inspiration around the web I found just the right combination that works for me!

All I’ve done is simply cut a deeper neckline on the shirts to give them a boatneck and then I added elastic into the bottom hem of the T-shirts. This makes the shirts hug my hips and show more skin on the top yet retain the comfortable loungy T-shirt feel. I am so happy with the outcome! I love layering these shirts over tall tank tops with complementary colors!

To decide the length of the elastic I simply pulled the elastic around my hips and clipped it at the length that I felt would be snug but not too tight. This upcycle method is really easy to eyeball and just wing it without extensive complicated measurements. I share some pictures of the process so you can raid your loved one’s closet and create some sexy from the plain!

 

Shirt diagram

 

Upcycle shirt cut guide

 

Upcycle shirt neck

Upcycle shirt elastic

 

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