I wanted a crochet version of the snap bracelet that is over my thumb in the picture, so I used the free awareness bracelet pattern I made and made it in black. Then I went back with some red yarn and simply added some little red X’s across it! I am very happy with how it turned out! Yarn is so comfortable to wear!
Josephine Kitty Sweater Pattern
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Okay ghoulz! I need to add some notes here about size!
It’s come to my attention that my kitty sweater patterns are on the small side. I’m going to make notes, but if you want larger patterns, add more chains in the beginning chain to shape the chest. Since I make the arm hole rows early on, you can use this to slide it onto your pet and see if you like the size or if you want to adjust it before you spend a lot of time making it only to find it is too small. The patterns are written to where it’s pretty basic to adjust for a larger beginning chain. That being said, I have not yet done any adjustments for larger pets.
When I made this pattern, our kitty, Mizzy, was very old, and she was a petite kitty. This pattern is for tiny cats, or teen/older kittens. I’ve seen it used for a rabbit sweater, and it worked for me when I made one for a chihuahua/rat terrier sized extra small dog. So if you’re wanting notes on the size, there ya go!
Mizzy Kitty passed away a few years ago, and we now have a kitten, October the Cat-Toby Toebeans. I call him a kitten, but he is two years old this month, (October 2021)! I just tried to make him a sweater, and he is ALREADY TOO BIG for this sweater, LOL! This made me think that I’d better make some notes on the size to go with this pattern, so I’ll be adding this at the beginning of both the patterns.
Now…on to the pattern!
~ Starling
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* Made using a size K (6.50 MM) hook and Red Heart Super Saver Yarn.
Begin by shaping the chest and creating the sleeve holes:
Rnd 1: Ch 42 loosely, Jn with sl st in first ch to form a large ring. Ch 2, (counts as first dc here and throughout), 2 dc in same ch, sk next 2 ch, (3 dc in next ch, sk next 2 ch) around. Jn with sl st in first dc. Fasten off if changing colors at the end of each row. If not simply sl st to the nearest place that you are instructed to begin. (14 sets of 3-dc-fans.)
Rnd 2: Jn with a sl st between any two fan clusters. Ch 2, 2 dc in same space. To form first arm hole, *put only 2 dc in next space between fans, chain 5 loosely, sk next space between fans and put 2 dc in the next space between fans.* 3 dc in next space. To make second armhole, repeat from * to *. Then put 3 dc in each space the rest of the way around and jn with a sl st in the first dc. (8 sets of 3-dc-fans, 4 sets of 2-dc fans, and two armholes.)
Rnd 3: Jn with a sl st between one of the clusters. Ch 2, 2 dc in same space. 3 dc in each space around except in the two armholes. Work 5 dc in each armhole. Jn with a sl st in first dc.
Rnd 4: Jn with a sl st between the cluster right before the first armhole. 2 dc in same space, sk next 2 st, 3 dc in next st (about the center of the 5 double crochets along the armhole), 3 dc in each of next 3 spaces between the fans, sk next 2 st, 3 dc in next st (also about the center of the 5 double crochets of this second armhole), 3 dc in each of the spaces between the fans around. Jn with a sl st in first dc. (14 3-dc-fan-clusters in all.)
Rnds 5 and 6: Jn with a sl st between one of the clusters. Ch 2, dc in same st, 3 dc in each space between the fan clusters around. Jn with a sl st in first dc.
Now will begin working back and forth in rows instead of around.
Row 1: Jn with a sl st in a space between fans that is even with the outside (upper) point of the closest armhole so that your rows will be starting just above one armhole and ending just above the other armhole back and forth. Ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc) in same space as join. Work 3 dc until you reach the space even with just above the other armhole. (dc, hdc, sc, ch 1, sl st) in that last space. (I personally have 7 sets of 3-dc fans and the two varied-stitch fans; one on each side. So 9 fans all together.)
Row 2: Jn with a sl st in the last sc of previous row. Ch 1, turn. sc in next st (not the same st as your ch-1, but the hdc from the previous row), hdc in the next st, ch 1, 3 dc in the second space between fan stitches rather than the space that is now directly below your hdc. 3 dc in each space across stopping before last space.Ch 1, hdc in 3rd st from end, sc in 2nd st from end, sl st in the last st of the row. Fasten off.
Row 3: You don’t have to turn rows anymore unless you’re using the same color and working back and forth. If you’re changing colors you might as well keep working with the right side facing you on every row now. Jn with a sl st in 1st st. (This should be between the sc/sl st spot of previous row.) Ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc) in same st, 3 dc in every space between fans across. After the last fan, sk the next st and in the very last st of the row (this should be between the sc/sl st of previous row) work (dc, hdc, sc, ch 1, sl st) in that last st.
Row 4 -7: Repeat Row 2 and 3 twice.
Row 8: Repeat Row 2.
Front Section: (Basically this will fill in the bottom half of the front of the sweater.)Working with the original chain you made to begin the sweater, you’ll join with a sl st along the bottom section of the front just in line with the outside of one of the legs like you did on the other side of the sweater to create the back and forth rows of the sweater’s back. Then you’ll work across until you reach even with the outside of the opposite leg hole. You’ll be turning and working back and forth, and as you move up the rows it will make a kind of square which you’ll then fold up toward the neck/chest and sew it in place leaving only the opening for the neck.
Row 1: Jn with a sl st in the original chain just in line with the outside of one of the leg holes. You’ll be joining in one of the spaces between the fans, only from the angel of the chain along the bottom and working in the opposite direction. Ch 2, dc only once in the same space, 3 dc in each space between the fans until you reach the fan space that is even with the outside of the second leg hole. Work only 2 dc in that last space.
Row 2: Jn with a sl st in the first st of the row. Ch 2, 3 dc in each space between the fans across. Work one dc in very last st.
Row 3: Jn with a sl st in first st. Ch 2, dc only once in the same space, 3 dc in each space between the fan across. Then work 2 dc in the very last space. Fasten off after row 3.
Fold the square section to fit along the bottom section of the front of the sweater. Use a yarn needle and pick a suitable color yarn to sew this flap section into place along the chain at the sides leaving only the neck hole at the top where you’ll then be able to work around to form a colar or turtleneck. If you’d like to give the shoulders/chest a more rounded appearance you can get fancy and turn the sweater in-side-out to sew this flap into place, but I usually don’t notice much of a difference is sewing it in place right-side-out or in-side-out.
Sleeves:
Rnd 1: Around each armhole, there should be about 5 spaces that are like the spaces between the 3-dc-fans. Jn with a sl st in one of these spaces, ch 2, 2 dc in same space as join, then you’ll put 3 dc in each space around accept for the little span of 5 dc in a row where you need to pick a spot about mid-way bewteen those stitches and add one more set of 3 dc in one st. This should give you 6 even 3-dc-fans to form the shape of the sleeve, and you’ll join with a sl st in top of the first dc/ch-2.
Then make the sleeves as long as you’d like by joining next rnd with a sl st in any space between the fans, ch 2, dc in same space, then 3 dc in each space around and jn with a sl st in top of first dc/ch-2. I usually just add 2 rows, but you might be in the mood some time for some long pet sleeves! Fasten off at the end of your last row and weave in ends.
Neck:
Rnd 1 and 2: Jn with sl st in any of the open spaces along the neck. Ch 2, 2dc in same space, 3 dc in next space and in each space around. Jn with a sl st in top of first dc.
Border:
For the border, jn with the color of your choice with a sl st somewhere along the edging. (Ch 1, sl st) around. Jn with sl st, fasten off, weave in ends.
Free Nyan Cat Costume Pattern
I use a size K (6.50 MM) hook and Red Heart Yarn for poptarn and a size F (3.75 MM) hook for rainbow.
For poptart:
Rw 1: With pale pink, Ch 18, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and across. (16 hdc)
Rw 2 and 3: Ch 2,turn, hdc in same st and across. (16 hdc in each row)
Rw 4 – 8: (Now creating one side of the poptart) Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st and next 2 st. (3 hdc in each row) Fasten off.
Rw 4-8 of other side. (Creating the other side of the poptart.) Jn with a sl st in the opposite side of Row 3. Now Repeat Row 4-8.
Rw 9: Turn and loosely sl st 3 st back to the top of the first hdc in row 8 so you can begin row 9 from there. Or if you want you can fasten off and join back at the beginning with a sl st. Ch 2, turn again, hdc in same st and in next 2 st, ch 10, hdc in each of the 3 st on the other side now forming the center square of the costume. (6 hdc, ch-10)
Rw 10: Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st and across putting 10 hdc in each of the 10 ch. (16 hdc)
Rw 11 and 12: Repeat Rw 2 and 3. (16 hdc in each row)
Border with pale pink: Ch 2, turn, 2 hdc in same st which will make a corner when you come all the way around and add one more hdc in it. Hdc in each st around, adding about 17 hdc along each side and putting 3 hdc in each corner. Hdc in last corner and Jn with a sl st in top of 1st hdc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Border with tan: Jn with a sl st in any corner. Work in back loops only around poptart. Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st which will make a corner when you come all the way around and add one more hdc in it. Hdc in each st around, adding about 19 hdc along each side and putting 3 hdc in each corner. Hdc in last corner and Jn with a sl st in top of 1st hdc.
Rainbow Trail:
Switch to a size F (3.75 MM) hook.
Rw 1: Note this as right side. Ch 38, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in next 9 ch, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch. dc in next 11 ch, skip next 4 chs, dc in next 11 ch. Fasten off. Jn with next color with a sl st in last st. Ch 2, turn.
Rw 2: Working in front loops only, dc in same st and in next 9 sts, dc dec once, dc in next 11 sts, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next ch-3 space, dc in last 11 sts. Fasten off. Jn with next in the same st with a sl st. Ch 2, turn.
Rw 3: Working in back loops only, dc in same st and in next 11 st,(dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 space, dc in next 11 sts, dc dec once, dc in last 11 sts. Fasten off. Jn with next color in the same st. Ch 2, turn.
Rw 4: Working in front loops only, dc in same st and in next 9 sts, dc dec once, dc in next 12 sts, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next ch-3 space, dc in last 13 sts. Fasten off. Jn with next in the same st with a sl st. Ch 2, turn.
Rw 5: Working in back loops only, dc in same st and in next 13 st,(dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 space, dc in next 12 sts, dc dec once, dc in last 10 sts. Fasten off. Jn with next color in the same st. Ch 2, turn.
Rw 6: Working in front loops only, dc in same st and in next 9 sts, dc dec once, dc in next 12 sts, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next ch-3 space, dc in last 15 sts. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Place rainbow along poptart where you’d like to sew it in place. Use poptart colored yarn to stitch the rainbow in place.
If you would like for the costume to be more stiff, I trace the costume on cheap foam board from Wal-Mart and then cut it out with a box cutter making sure it’s much wider than the poptart head center and smaller than the rainbow and the outside of the poptart and then I sew it in place with yarn.
Try on angry cat and take dozens of pictures. Check shoes later to make sure there is no vengeful hairball inside.
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Okay ghoulz! I need to add some notes here about size!
It’s come to my attention that my kitty sweater patterns are on the small side. I’m going to make notes, but if you want larger patterns, add more chains in the beginning chain to shape the chest. Since I make the arm hole rows early on, you can use this to slide it onto your pet and see if you like the size or if you want to adjust it before you spend a lot of time making it only to find it is too small. The patterns are written to where it’s pretty basic to adjust for a larger beginning chain. That being said, I have not yet done any adjustments for larger pets.
When I made this pattern, our kitty, Mizzy, was very old, and she was a petite kitty. This pattern is for tiny cats, or teen/older kittens. I’ve seen it used for a rabbit sweater, and it worked for me when I made one for a chihuahua/rat terrier sized extra small dog. So if you’re wanting notes on the size, there ya go!
Mizzy Kitty passed away a few years ago, and we now have a kitten, October the Cat-Toby Toebeans. I call him a kitten, but he is two years old this month, (October 2021)! I just tried to make him a sweater, and he is ALREADY TOO BIG for this sweater, LOL! This made me think that I’d better make some notes on the size to go with this pattern, so I’ll be adding this at the beginning of both the patterns.
Now…on to the pattern!
~ Starling
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Kitty or Small Dog Sweater Pattern
I use Red Heart Yarn, but the pattern seems to work well with many different yarn types. I use a size K hook, (6.5 MM), and a yarn needle to help me weave in the ends more easily.
Chest of Sweater:
Rnd 1: Ch 42 loosely, Jn with sl st in first ch to form a large ring. Ch 2, dc in same ch and in each chain around until you have about 40-42 dc not including the first ch-2. Jn with sl st in first dc.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st. To form first arm hole, chain 5 loosely. Sk next 4 st, dc in 5th st. Dc in next 3 st, 5 dc bobble in next st, dc in next 4 st. To form next arm hole, chain 5 loosely, sk next 4 st, dc in 5th st. Dc in next st. 5 dc bobble in next st. (Dc in next 8 st, 5 dc bobble in next st) around. Jn with a sl st in 1st dc.
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next st and around working 4 dc in each ch-5 arm hole space. Jn with a sl st in 1st dc.
Rnd 4: Ch 2, 3 dc in same st, sk next 2 st, (3 dc in next st, sk next 2 st) around. Skip last 3 st rather than just the 2 and join with a sl st in 1st dc.
Rnd 5: Sl st to the nearest space between 3 dc fans cluster. Ch 2, 3 dc in each space between the 3dc fan clusters around. Jn with a sl st in first dc.
Rnd 6: Repeat round 5.
Back of the Sweater:
Now will begin working back and forth in rows instead of around which will form the back of the sweater.
Row 1: Sl st until you are even with the outside (upper) point of the closest armhole so that your rows will be starting just above one armhole and ending just above the other armhole back and forth. When you get to your starting point, ch 2, dc in same st and across until you’re even with the top of the opposite armhole. (There should be about 25 dc not including the first ch-2)
Row 2: Turn, sl st in same st, sc in next st, 5 dc bobble in next st, dc in next 8 st, 5 dc bobble in next st, dc in next 8 st, 5 dc bobble in next st, dc to last 2 st, sc, sl st in last st.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sl st in same st, sc, hdc, dc across to last 3 st, hdc, sc, sl st.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sl st in same st and next st, sc, (3 dc in next st, sk next 2 st) across to last 3 st. Sc, sl st, ignore last st.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sl st in same st and next st, sc, 3 dc in each of the spaces between clusters across. After last space, sk next 2 st, sc, sl st.
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same st, dc in next 2 st, 3 dc in each space across, sk next st, dc in next 3 st.
Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same st and in each st across.
Row 8: Ch 2, turn, dc in same st, 5 dc bobble in next st, dc in next 8 st, 5 dc bobble, dc in next 8 sts, 5 dc bobble, dc to end.
Row 9: Repeat Row 7.
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Sl st in same st and next st, sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, tr crochet in next 5 st or until you have 8 st left. dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc, sc, sl st, sl st.
Row 11: Repeat row 10. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Front Section: (Basically this will fill in the bottom half of the front of the sweater. You’ll join with a sl st along the bottom section of the front just in line with the outside of one of the legs. Then you’ll dc across until you reach even with the outside of the opposite leg hole. You’ll be turning the work and working back and forth to form the front square of the sweater.
Row 1: Jn with a sl st in the original chain just outside of one leg hole. Ch 2, dc in same ch and across to just outside the 2nd leg hole.
Row 2 and 3: Ch 2, turn, dc in same st and across. Fasten off after row 3.
Fold the square section in toward the neck direction of the sweater. Use a yarn needle to sew this flap section into place along the chain at the sides leaving only the neck hole at the top where you’ll then be able to work around to form a colar or turtleneck. If you want to get fancy then you can turn the sweater in-side-out right now to sew the front in place so that it will have a more rounded appearance on the outside rather than squared, but I don’t notice too much difference either way.
Sleeves:
Rnd 1: Jn with a sl st at the leg hole. Ch 2, dc in same place as join, dc evenly around and join with a sl st in first dc. If this is long enough for you then fasten off and waeve in ends. If not, repeat next rnd until the sleeves are as long as you’d like.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in first dc.
Neck:
Rnd 1: Jn with sl st anywhere along the neck. Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next st and around, excepct dc dec in each of the two corners where the neck meets the front of the sweater. Jn with sl st in first dc.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st and around. Jn with sl st in top of 1st dc. Repeat Rnd 2 until neck is as tall as you’d like.
Border:
For the border, jn with the color of your choice with a sl st somewhere along the edging. (Ch 1, sl st) around. Jn with sl st, fasten off, weave in ends.
Here’s what I did this weekend for Project Marathon Saturday! I tried it all and I love the way it’s working out! For the extra tiny yarn scraps I used notched popsicle sticks that I got in the craft section of Walmart so that there are lots of places to stick the ends of the yarn and keep it from sliding out-of-place. I think normal popsicle sticks wouldn’t have a way to keep the little pieces of yarn on there unless you add a rubber band or something like that, so I’m glad I found these!
Oh, and dont’ forget to like and follow my Craftyghoul Facebook page too!
Do you have a hobby you LOVE to do so much that you just want an excuse to indulge in it all day long? Well here’s your chance! Every Saturday Valtiel and I pick our current most favorite project (s) and the plan is to buckle down, kick back, snub distractions, and go for it all day long!
We first make sure that all our other responsibilities are out-of-the-way and completed during the week so there will be only guilt-free fun and excitement all Saturday. We deserve that. You deserve that! It’s how life should be! Don’t move along saying when the grass is greener you’re going to take some time for yourself or teach yourself a hobby, finally beat that level on your game or do all the side quests, or set a stack of comic book volumes next to you and get caught up on all the back issues! You should regularly take time out for you NOW!
Now don’t get the idea that we’re couch potatoes or sitting around until our wrists and necks are killing us or going cross-eyed reading! No way! The trick is, we start out with a healthy breakfast and a simple bit of stretches. Anything will do just to get your body limber and ready for thinking and processing. Then we gather everything we need for the day: healthy enough snacks and make sure there’s a fresh new pot of coffee or gallon of tea made so there won’t be those distractions during the day. Then we set a timer for about an hour to an hour and a half depending on how often we plan to have stopping points in what we’re doing. When the timer goes off, we pause, get up, chug some water while we’re thinking about it, and then we walk together around the little half a block around our house a couple of times. We take the time to bond and chat about what we’ve accomplished so far, stretch our legs, and refresh our brains so we’ll be clear-headed and ready to go back to our projects without getting eye strain or fatigued from it!
We measure the length of the span we walk each time and just tally the amount of times we go around the short distance and add it up at the end of the day. It makes it seem like it’s nothing, but if we walk around three to five times each break before we know it we’ve walked half a mile to a mile on project day; and managed to bond and indulge in our favorite things in the world! What better way to stay fit, exercise your brain, learn new things, and make the most of your bonding time even while indulging your heart’s desire to do your favorite things?!
We’ll be posting on Facebook every Saturday to give updates on how our Project Marathon Saturday is going, and we’d love it if you’d synchronize, join us, and keep us posted on what you’re doing and how it’s workin’ for you! Like our Facebook page here!
Crochet Book Review
Afghans for all Seasons (book 2), by Leisure Arts
This is my favorite afghan book that I’ve flipped through so far! The 52 patterns inside are displayed elegantly on full color pages. It feels like I notice a new afghan every time I thumb through it! There are so many patterns that I’d like to try that I had to give up on marking the pages and simply bookmark the pattern I’m currently working on!
That being said, I’m a small-project kind of person, so I rarely finish these larger tasks. It didn’t matter, though! The pages kept nagging at me to try the patterns to see if I could create such variously different works of art. During these random blanket-attacks that drove me to give some of them a try, I noticed that the patterns were very well written, and the instructions were very clear!
There is plenty of variety amungst the lovely patterns, and I’d venture to say there is something for everyone’s taste! They divide their pattern themes into the four seasons and the colors they choose are inspirational as much as the designs. They have spring flowers, autumn stripes, winter snowflakes, and summertime ladybugs! Some of the patterns are reminiscent of traditional afghan styles and give off a comforting, warm feeling as I study them. There are a few cuddly soft baby blankets and thick, bobble-stitched (they call it honeycomb) winter blankets, and there is no shortage of unique, creative designs.
My cat and I fight over the baby blanket I made from page 32; Storytime, it’s titled. I tweaked the pattern just a little to make it wider and longer to use as a throw on the couch. I usually wind up giving in and juggling my kitty against my chest, tucking the afghan in around us both, and then peeking over her head to see the laptop which I then have to stretch to reach. Once the house warms up later in the morning, though, she’ll allow me to let her sit across the blanket in my lap while I work on new crochet projects.
I definitely recommend this book whether you’re a ‘seasoned’ crocheter or a beginner. There seems to be something in there for everyone! I’ll add some pictures so you can see the colors I’ve used in my experimentations!
~ Starling
Ladybug crochet afghan pattern from “Afghans for all Seasons” by Leisure Arts.
I tried to get a picture of the “Storytime” afghan from “Afghans for all Seasons”, by Leisure Arts.
“Garden of Flowers” square from “Afghans for all Seasons”, by Leisure Arts.
Support/Awareness Bracelet Crochet Pattern
I use a size F (3.75MM) hook and either Red Heart yarn or Caron Simply Soft yarn. I try to work tightly on these bracelets so the color is more smooth and the bracelet is more firm.
Remember to check out all the different colors/causes somewhere, like here, and get an idea of how many important things there are to spread awareness about and choose ones that are important to you! Or you can always just make the bracelets to match your current style!
Simplified Version:
Rnd 1: Ch 33, jn with a sl st in first ch. Ch 1, sc in same ch and around. Jn with sl st in first sc.
(Note: If you chain loosely then the chain at the center of the bracelet will have larger decorative circles. You might need less chains for your bracelet if you do this.If you chain more tightly then the bracelet will have a more solid appearance. Both look nice to me! See picture below for comparison.)
Rnd 2: Turn in-side-out, ch 2, jn with a sl st in original ch, ch 1. Turn right-side-out. Sc in same ch and around in the original ch. Jn with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Instructions with more detail in case above is unclear:
Rnd 1: Make a chain just long enough to stretch and slide over the widest part of your hand once it is joined in the first ch with a sl st. (I chain 33.) Be careful not to twist the chain so it will be easier for you to find the chain spaces evenly. Ch 1, sc in same ch and around. Jn with a sl st in the first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 2. Turn the bracelet in-side-out and jn with a sl st in the original chain. (This is just so that you don’t have to fasten off and rejoin on the opposite side of the bracelet and have more ends to weave in.) Now ch 1 and turn the bracelet right-side-out again so that you’re looking at the right side of your bracelet while single crocheting around just like you were on the first rnd, only you’ll be working along in the chain again in the opposite direction. Sc in the same ch as you joined with the sl st, sc in the next st and around. Jn with a sl st in the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. (I use a yarn needle to weave in the ends and make sure I do this on the inside of the bracelet…which should be the same side that the ch-2 is visible from when you changed sides for the second round.
I’ve decided to share this pattern for free, so if you share it with a friend I’d like for you to mention me and/or link it back to where they can find my site! Let me know whatcha think! Thanks! ~Starling
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in next st and around, except in the 2 stitches at each of the four corners, you will put (dc, tr) in the first st, ch 2, and (tr, dc) in the second st to shape the corners. Jn with a sl st in the first dc. (3 dc along each side, so 12 dc total, and 4 (tr, dc) corners)
If the squares are big enough to suit your project now then simply fasten off and weave in all the ends of the scrap yarn you have tied together to make it. If you’d like a larger square then proceed to Rnd 4.
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in next st and around except for in the four ch-1 corner spaces. In each space ( 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Jn wit a sl st in the top corner and fasten off. Weave in ends. (6 dc along each side, so 24 dc total, and 4 ( 2dc, ch 2, 2dc) corners.)
Joining the squares: Once you’re ready to connect the squares, join with a sl st in any space, ch 1, sl st in the st across from it (in the second square). (Ch 1, sl st in the st across from that) all along the joining sides. If you’d like to add a pretty zigzag effect then chain 2 or 3 in between each sl st while you join instead of the ch-1.
Then just look up a neat border for your squares or simply sc or dc all around the outside of your work. (Remember to add several sc or dc in each corner so your work doesn’t bend in.) You can also get creative and join your squares to cover everything around you like I did to this poor step stool in my house! I know…the colors aren’t all that impressive, but I did it a long time ago when I was first learning to crochet so I only used scrap yarn to practice instead of the rich colors I go out and buy now to do more advanced projects.
I’ve decided to share this pattern for free, so if you share it with a friend I’d like for you to mention me and/or link it back to where they can find my site! Let me know whatcha think! Thanks! ~Starling
craftyghoul 